What’s my favorite crack repair epoxy?
Crackweld is a concrete crack injection repair product that you can use to repair cracks in concrete floors, slabs, and driveways.
It can also be used to repair concrete spalling, holes in concrete, and pitted concrete floors.
It’s actually a 2-part polymer resin (see below) that’s much easier to use than the 2-part epoxy repair products.
The reason it’s my favorite is because of how much more user friendly it is compared to all the other repair products I have used. (I list more reasons I like it better below)
CrackWeld has a much lower viscosity than most epoxy crack fillers. The very low viscosity allows you to repair cracks from hairline width up to 1/2″ wide.
Who Am I? I’m a concrete crack repair contractor
Hi, and thanks for visiting my page about epoxy concrete crack repair.
My name is Mike Day, I own Day’s Concrete Floors, Inc. My company specializes in repairing cracks in concrete floors and walls.
After using many different kinds of repair epoxies, I’ve finally found the secret weapon when it comes to fixing cracks in concrete.
Through a lot of trial and error, this concrete repair product has outperformed and was easier to use than all the other ones I have tried in the past.
Why I like it so much better than others repair epoxies
This is the same kit I use to repair cracks in concrete floors and slabs. Sometimes mistaken for epoxy it’s actually a 2-component rigid polyurethane polymer.
The advantages of using this type of material to repair cracks are :
- NO NEED TO “ROUTE OUT” THE CRACK – Eliminates the process of grinding out or chiseling the crack
- REPAIRS HAIRLINE CRACKS EASY – Repair mixture is very liquid, seeps right into small cracks
- DRIES QUICKLY – Gets hard in 15 minutes so you can epoxy over it, drive over it, or just plain use the floor again.
- HIGHER STRENGTH THAN CONCRETE – It actually “welds” the concrete back together like it was never cracked in the first place.
- CAN USE IT IN COLD WEATHER – The repair formula will harden even in below zero temperatures. (another reason I love this stuff over other products)
RadonSeal has a PRO kit for contractors and a DIY kit for homeowners
I personally use the PRO kit because we repair a lot of cracked concrete floors and the duel cartridges repair more lineal feet of cracks without having to stop as often.
If you only have a small (less than 50 lineal feet) amount of cracks to fix, then I would suggest you use their diy crack repair injection kit.
If you have more than 50 lineal feet of crack repair, you may want to compare the costs between the PRO kit and the DIY kit.
How many lineal feet will each kit repair?
CrackWeld DIY concrete floor repair kit:
- 2-pack kit: Up to 50′ of 1/16″ crack or 25′ of 1/8″ crack
- 4-pack kit: Up to 100′ of 1/16″ crack or 50′ of 1/8″ crack
NOTE: You use your own single cartridge caulking gun with the diy kit.
CrackWeld PRO concrete floor repair kit:
- 2-duel cartridges kit: Up to 100′ of 1/16″ crack or 50′ of 1/8″ crack
NOTE: The PRO kit comes with a duel cartridge caulking gun.
If you already have a duel cartridge caulking gun like the one in the picture above, then you can buy the PRO consumables repair kit and save some money.
YES, I want the diy concrete crack repair kit!
No, I actually need a foundation crack repair injection product.
Can I use CrackWeld to repair cracks in a concrete driveway?
The simple answer is YES, as long as the crack is “dormant” (not moving) it will work excellent for this.
If the crack is “active“ (still moving) either with expansion/contraction or you live in a freeze/thaw climate, then you would be better off using RadonSeal’s flexible Elastipoxy concrete repair kit.
Can I use CrackWeld for other types of concrete repairs?
YES, this is another one of my “secrets“ about this product, let’s keep this just between us, ok.
It works great for repairing:
- Spalling or pitted concrete that mostly occurs from salt dripping off cars and trucks in places that get snow and ice.
- Small to medium size holes in concrete (I mix it with dry sand and make a paste to do this).
- Fixing chipped or spalling concrete stairs (make a past out of it if you need to).
- Repair damaged saw cuts (expansion/contraction joints)
That’s what I like about this product so much, it’s very versatile. If you mix it with some silica sand and make a paste, you can use it to fix a lot concrete problems.
Is this really a “do it yourself” concrete crack repair product?
It is, I promise you. This is the most user friendly concrete floor and slab crack repair kit I have ever used.
I’ve been repairing cracks in both concrete floors and foundation walls for many years, too many to actually tell you, it will embarrass me.
Seriously though, this is the stuff you want to get to fix a crack. Don’t waste you time or money on other epoxy repair products.
I use CrackWeld in my business to repair cracks in floors for all my customers. I wouldn’t use it or recommend it if I truly didn’t feel it was the best crack repair product out there.
All you need to do is follow my tutorial below and watch my video of us repairing a crack in a garage floor.
After you do both of those things, I am confident you’ll be more than capable of fixing your own cracks, whether it’s a basement floor crack, a garage floor crack or any kind of floor crack.
How do you repair a floor crack using CrackWeld
Here’s the simple FORMULA for fixing a crack.
I also have a tutorial video below so you can watch me fix a garage floor crack.
- Clean out the crack with a vacuum, remove any loose cement or aggregates.
- Inject the concrete crack repair resin into the crack to wet it, it will soon get tacky.
- Push the dry silica sand into the crack to fill it.
- Thoroughly saturate the sand with the concrete floor crack repair resin and fill it to the surface.
- In 10 – 15 minutes scrape the surface level with a putty knife.
- Sand the surface smooth or lightly grind it with a hand grinder for a neat appearance.
TIP: If the cracks are very small, narrow or jagged, you may have to rout them out with a diamond blade and 4″ hand grinder. Making the crack a little wider with smoother edges will make for a better and stronger repair.
If you’ve never used a 4″ grinder with a diamond blade, find someone who has and let them do it for you. You could also try a file or screwdriver to help widen the crack.
Use the moist material you just scraped off with the putty knife to patch any holes, chips or scaled areas in the concrete floor.
Hairline cracks can be done without the sand. Wide cracks can first be filled partially with the sand then start with step 2.
This crack repair material sets up very quickly, only do 10 – 15 feet at one time.
RadonSeal makes a Do It Yourself epoxy concrete crack repair Kit that has all the repair materials included. They also have a great video that visually explain how to use this epoxy crack patching material.
Watch and I’ll teach you how to use the CrackWeld concrete floor repair kit:
I want the diy concrete crack repair kit.
I want the PRO concrete crack repair kit like in the picture above.
What might be the reason my floor cracked?
It’s hard to say without actually looking at you concrete floor. If I look at it I can usually tell pretty quickly.
Here are the most common reasons why concrete floors crack:
- The sub-base wasn’t properly compacted and the concrete settled in one area causing the floor to sink and crack.
- The concrete floor isn’t heated in the winter and the dirt under the concrete freezes causing it to expand and lift or heave, the concrete. This upward pressure will make the concrete crack.
- Newly poured concrete shrinks when it dries. If no expansion joints are cut into the concrete floor then shrinkage cracks will appear at some point in the future. These are quite common.
Here are some other reasons why concrete cracks:
- Pouring the concrete too wet
- Or too much calcium chloride was added to the mix and it dried too fast
- Or the concrete wasn’t properly cured and sealed.
All these reasons could eventually lead to shrinkage cracking at some point.
If you determine the concrete floor cracks are due to settling or heaving, then that’s a sub-base issue and the concrete may have to be removed to correct the problem.
Repairing these cracks will only be temporary if the concrete continues to move up or down.
If you’re sure the concrete floor is done moving, you can repair those cracks and any shrinkage cracks with CrackWeld, just add a silica sand for a filler. (like we do in the video)
This repair mortar will weld the crack back together creating an excellent concrete floor repair.
I don’t know what else I can say. CrackWeld is a great product, the people over at RadonSeal, Joe, Craig, and the rest of the gang are top notch.
For me to be successful in my business, I need to work with people I can count on, and use products that won’t let me down.
I highly recommend using this to fix your cracked concrete floor!
If you’ve read this far, I have a special offer just for you
In case you couldn’t tell, I install a lot of concrete floors and slabs for a living.
It’s what we do the most of here at Day’s Concrete Floors, Inc.
I have a CONCRETE SLAB COURSE that I made to teach people how to install their own concrete slab.
The course is designed to help people save a ton of money by being able to build the forms and pour the concrete slab yourself.
For more interesting information about concrete stuff:
This crack repair kit is my “secret weapon” I use to fix cracks in basement walls and stop them from leaking.
Click on CONCRETE JOINT SEALANT to learn how to install sealant in expansion and contraction joints to keep them from failing.
Learn How I repair badly damaged concrete walks, driveways, and patios.
Click on REMOVING CARPET GLUE FROM CONCRETE to learn how to do that.
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Why Does Concrete Crack?
One of the biggest hesitations people have when it comes to choosing concrete for their projects is that it cracks over time. While this practical, durable material is one of the strongest goods on the market, the forces of time and nature will eventually cause it to crack–especially if it’s been installed by a non-reputable
One of the biggest hesitations people have when it comes to choosing concrete for their projects is that it cracks over time.
While this practical, durable material is one of the strongest goods on the market, the forces of time and nature will eventually cause it to crack–especially if it’s been installed by a non-reputable company.
But why does concrete crack, and is there anything that will prevent this from happening?
These 5 mistakes are some of the most common causes of concrete cracks.
1. The concrete dried too fast
Faster is not always better. If your concrete mix doesn’t have enough water in it, it will dry too quickly and crack prematurely. Depending on the project, it should take at least a few weeks, maybe even a month, to dry completely.
2. Your contractor put too much water in the mix
Poorly mixed concrete can create a range of problems. Just like having too little water in the mix can cause it to crack, so can having too much water. Water must combine with the concrete at just the right pace so that it can cure and set properly.
3. Control joints weren’t used
Your concrete must be able to properly expand and contract in different temperatures, otherwise it’ll crack. Control joints are made specifically to help your concrete move about without breaking.
If your contractor doesn’t use these joints, there won’t be extra room for the slab to adjust its size with the changing temperatures, and it will end up cracking due to its internalized pressure.
4. It was too cold when your concrete was poured
Just like the amount of water affects concrete’s hydration process, so does cold weather. When the temperature drops too low, concrete won’t be able to cure correctly. In these situations, the pour will either need to be postponed, or the subsurface will need to be warmed before pouring.
5. Your concrete is too thin
Concrete that’s too thin is extremely susceptible to cracking. The proper thickness of your concrete will vary based on its purpose. For example, a driveway that’s meant to support vehicles needs to be thicker than a sidewalk that is not.
Improper concrete thickness is one of the top reasons why DIY concrete projects fail. When taking on a massive project like this on your own, it’s easy to miscalculate the weight your concrete will be expected to bear and the subsequent thickness necessary. Unfortunately, this will result in severe premature cracking.
At Port Aggregates, our contractors have 40 years’ worth of experience built into their pours. Our beautiful concrete has been trusted for decades with good reason. When you hire our professionals, you can say goodbye to premature cracking and rest assured that your slab has been installed properly. Contact us today to request a quote!
Jan 2, How To Form and Pour A Concrete Slab – The #1 Resource on The Web
Learn how to form and pour a concrete slab. My step by step guide will teach you everything you need to know from forming to pouring to finishing.
The tools and materials you need to form and pour a concrete slab
- Ready-mix concrete (yardage will depend on size of slab)
- Wire mesh or Rebar reinforcement
- Anchor bolts
If your concrete slab is smaller, you can use bags of concrete instead or ready-mix.
Find out how many bags of concrete it takes to make a yard. I did all the calculations for you.
On my Tools Page you can find all the tools required to form and pour concrete.
I also have a concrete yardage calculator that shows you how many yards you need and how many bags of concrete you’ll need.
step by step: how to pour a concrete pad
These are the basic steps I use form and pour concrete slabs.
I also have a step by step video course with multiple training videos that teaches you all you need to know about how to install your own concrete slab: My Concrete Slab Course
step 1. prepare the area for concrete
Under your concrete slab there should be a compacted base of gravel. You can also use road base, crushed rock, or sand, as long as it’s well compacted.
You’ll probably have to remove some of the existing soil like in the picture above. We removed about 12 inches of the existing sod & loam and replaced it with 8″ of 3/4″ crushed gravel.
This area had a slight slope, so we had to remove more soil on one side than the other to get a level pad.
After installing the gravel, we raked it level (using my laser level) and ran a vibratory compactor over it to settle it and pack it very hard.
NOTE: You may need a permit to install a slab. Contact your local building code officer to see what they require for building a slab. You may also have to keep it a certain distance away from your property line.
PRO TIP: If you have a lot of soil to remove, you can rent a skid steer to do it much easier or hire an excavation contractor to prep the area for you.
BE SAFE: Some states require you to call Dig Safe (811) to check for any underground wires or utilities before you start digging. It’s state law. It’s a free service so be safe.
step 2. building the forms for a concrete slab
Lay out your forms. It’s better to have forms that are a little longer than the size of your slab.
Set up your leveling device. I’m using a self-leveling laser. You can use a 4′ level or a transit level. All 3 will get the job done.
My slab size is 14′ x 10′.
Starting on one side, measure the length of your slab and mark it on the form. (my mark was at 14′ on this side)
Mark each side the same way. (my next side was 10′)
You’ll use these marks to screw the forms together in the next step.
step 3. screw the forms together and square the slab
Use your marks to screw the forms together.
Align the inside of the form with your pencil mark.
You can use a drill driver and deck screws like we do or you can use a hammer and nails to fasten the forms together.
I personally like to use screws, there’s less movement to the forms because you’re not banging on them with a hammer.
Screws are also easier to take out when you go to remove the forms.
After the forms are fastened together it’s time to square the slab.
I measure diagonally each way and slide the forms a little one way or the other until I get the exact same measurement for both diagonal measurements.
It usually takes a few times going back and forth checking until you get it exact.
When you have the slab square, you’re ready to stake it in place.
step 4. stake the forms and set them to grade
Use wooden stakes (or metal pins like me) to secure the forms in place.
I like to stake each corner, about 8 – 12 inches from the corner, on both sides.
After my 4 corners are staked, I hammer in a stake about every 4′ on all the sides.
To make sure the forms are straight, I use a string line on top of the forms to check them as I stake the forms in place.
After pounding in all the stakes, I use my laser level to set all the forms perfectly level.
The receiver on my grade stick has a solid sounding “beep” when the form is at the pre-determined height. (5″ above my dirt grade)
Screw the form to the stake when it’s at the level you want.
Repeat for all 4 corners, then do the rest of the stakes and your forms will be level.
step 5. add the reinforcement
It’s time to install the reinforcement, I’m using wire mesh for this slab. The best way to cut wire mesh is with a pair of bolt cutters.
I buy the flat sheets of mesh, they measure 5′ x 10′. Some local lumber companies stock the flat wire. If not, they usually have the rolls of mesh (5′ x 150′ get these at HD and Lowe’s also)
Another good reinforcement to use for concrete slabs is 3/8 (#3) rebar or 1/2″ (#4) rebar. Rebar comes in 10′ or 20′ lengths and you cut it to the length you need.
If you use rebar and have to cut it, you can rent a rebar cutter at HD or a local tool rental store. Or you can buy a good rebar cutter / bender on Amazon.
After the wire mesh goes in, you’re ready to pour the concrete. If you’re using ready-mix concrete, choose a nice, dry day and call your local concrete supplier to schedule the pour.
Most likely you’ll have to give them about a weeks notice so don’t wait till the last minute to call.
If you’re using bags of concrete, use my concrete yardage calculator to see how many bags you’ll need.
step 6. how to pour the concrete
When the concrete arrives, ask the mixer driver for for a 6 inch slump. Slump is how dry or wet the concrete is mixed. A 6 slump is a good workable mix to pour with.
Start pulling the concrete around and filling in the forms. Pull up the wire mesh or rebar into the concrete as you pour. (or you can put small pieces of brick under it to hold it up)
Pour out as much as you’re comfortable with (maybe about half on something like this if you’re a beginner) before you screed it level.
If you’re mixing bagged concrete for your slab, it’s the same process. Just slower.
Mix enough concrete until you have enough of the forms filled to screed the concrete.
I like to use ready mix myself. It’s just faster and more convenient for me since we do multiple pours like this in a day. Either way is good. Ready mix will be more expensive on a smaller slab vs bag mix.
See how many bags of concrete come on a pallet and what they cost.
Screed the concrete level using a magnesium screed board like us or a straight 2 x 4. Use short pulling strokes and tip the screed slightly on the back edge.
Put pressure down on the screed as you pull it to make sure it rides on top of the forms. Let your helpers push concrete (to fill low spots) and pull concrete back (if it’s high) as you screed.
The concrete rakes (kumalongs) we use make moving the concrete around a lot easier.
After you screed the concrete, use a bull float to smooth the surface.
A bull float pushes down the aggregate on the surface and brings up some cement paste (creme).
Tip up the front edge and slowly push it from one side to the other. When you reach the opposite side, stop, tip up the back edge and slowly pull it back to you.
It might take multiple passes in the same spot to get it nice and smooth (usually 1 – 3 times).
After you’ve done the entire slab this way, you’re almost done with the pour.
step 7. installing anchor bolts in concrete (optional)
If you’re using anchor bolts, now is the time to put them in the concrete. Measure out where you want them and make a mark in the concrete.
Push the anchor bolt into the concrete to the desired level you want. I usually leave about 2 inches sticking up out of the concrete.
PRO TIP: Once you push it into the concrete a few inches, slightly jiggle it up and down to consolidate the concrete around the bolt as you set it to your finished level.
Now you’re done pouring the concrete.
Learn how to pour and finish concrete in my private training academy The Concrete Underground.
watch and i’ll show you how to pour a concrete slab
If you’re thinking of doing a broom finish, smooth trowel finish, or a textured finish on the concrete, I can show you how to finish the concrete HERE.
Another very important step is to “cure” the concrete. Click on CONCRETE SEALER to learn about this.
You can remove the forms the next day.
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Jan 2, How To Mix Concrete – The Most In Depth Guide On The Internet
Learn how to mix concrete by hand using a wheelbarrow, concrete mixing machine, bucket or a tub. Detailed instructions and a video shows you how mix concrete.
diy how to mix concrete at home
I’ll teach you my method of how to mix concrete: to get the proper firmness, texture, and strength.
tools you need for mixing concrete
Warning: Always wear safety gloves, safety goggles, and a dust mask when working with concrete.
Materials used for mixing concrete
- Concrete bag mix
- Portland cement – sand – gravel – optional if you’re mixing concrete from scratch.
Video: shows you how mix concrete by hand using quikrete
Owner Mike Day of Day’s Concrete Floors shows you how to properly mix concrete to repair a broken section of pool deck.
step by step: how to mix concrete
step 1. set up your mixing area
If you’re mixing multiple bags of concrete it’s a lot easier and faster if you have your mixing area organized.
If you’re only mixing one or two bags (like in the video) then all you need is your bag(s) of concrete, wheelbarrow, water, hoe.
On bigger projects it’s important to get all your bags in order and have plenty of water on hand. Having 2 people mixing and one spreading and smoothing the concrete makes the work go a lot faster.
step 2. measure the proper amount of water
I like to pre-measure the amount of water needed per bag and add it to the wheelbarrow first.
I feel putting the water in first, then adding the dry concrete ingredients, makes the mixing process easier and faster.
The water table below shows you how much water to use per bag.
Depending on the bag size, there’s a range of water you can add for mixing.
For and 80 lb. bag of Quikrete, you can use 6 pints to 9 pints (3 – 4.5 quarts) of water to mix each bag.
I like to add the minimum amount to the wheelbarrow first, then add more water up to the maximum if I feel it needs it to get a good workable mixture.
If you use more water than the maximum amount recommended, then your concrete mix will not be as strong as advertised on the bag.
step 3. add the bag mix to your wheelbarrow (tub, bucket, or mixer)
Add about 1/2 to 2/3’s of the bag mix into the wheelbarrow. Mix that amount with the water until all the dry ingredients are saturated.
Add the rest of the bag and keep mixing. Use this same technique if you’re mixing in a bucket or a tub.
If you’re mixing in an electric concrete mixer machine, then you can add the whole bag at one time.
step 4. mix the concrete to a workable consistency
Add the remainder of the bag and continue to mix the concrete. Move the hoe back and forth completely mixing the dry concrete mix with the water.
Add more water (up to the maximum amount) until you get your desired consistency.
Your concrete mix should look similar to the concrete below when it’s mixed properly.
It took me about 3 minutes to measure and add the water, then mix the 1 bag of concrete to this texture.
Be careful not to get the mix too wet or it’s more likely to crack and won’t be as strong.
If you feel the concrete mix is too runny (wet) just add some more concrete mix from another bag until you feel it looks like the picture below.
PRO TIP: Always have an extra bag of concrete on hand just in case your project takes more concrete than you expected it to.
step 5. place the mixed concrete where you need it
A good thing about mixing concrete in a wheelbarrow is you can wheel the concrete right where you need it.
Dump the concrete out of the wheelbarrow or shovel it out, like I’m doing on this job.
One way you can tell if you mixed the concrete properly is if you can move the concrete in place using a mag float and float it smooth going back and forth over it a few times.
step 6. clean the concrete off your tools as soon as possible
Clean the wheelbarrow, hoe, and shovel with water as soon as you finish. The concrete mix will dry on them very quickly.
PRO TIP: If the concrete mixture dries on your tools, use a margin trowel to scrape it off first, then rinse and scrub with water.
If you have a water hose and a stiff bristle brush nearby, rinse off the bulk of the concrete first, scrub the remaining cement paste, and rinse clean.
Do this in an area you don’t have to clean up the washed off concrete afterwards. Never wash off concrete onto your driveway or garage floor, it could permanently stain it.
how to mix concrete in a bucket
18 gallon bucket in the picture. (best place to buy this is on Amazon)When I mix concrete in a bucket, I like to have an over-sized bucket like this
I also like to use a mixing drill to mix my bags of concrete. A mixing drill like this one makes the mixing process very fast and is really the only way to mix concrete using a bucket.
The mixing process is the same as above: Add your water first, add 1/2 bag and mix, add remainder of bag and mix, add water up to the max. amount if needed.
how to mix concrete in a mixer
If you’re using an electric concrete mixer machine it’ll speed up the mixing process because you can mix 2 – 3 bags of concrete at one time. (depending on the size of your mixer)
The Mixing Process Goes Like This:
- Pre-measure your water and add it to the mixer first.
- Turn on the mixer before you add the first bag of concrete
- Add the first bag and let it mix for a minute (2 minutes if you’re only mixing one bag)
- Add the second bag and continue to mix for 2 – 3 minutes
- If the mix looks too dry add a little water as it’s mixing (only add water up to the max. amount)
When the concrete looks mixed to the right consistency, dump it out of the mixer and into a wheelbarrow.
You can buy a really good portable electric concrete mixer machine on Amazon for $200 to $300 dollars.
what is the ratio for mixing concrete?
How do you mix your own concrete?
If you’re using Portland cement, sand, and gravel to make your own concrete, you can use the 1-2-3 mixing ratio.
This concrete mixing ratio is done by mixing 1 shovel of cement with 2 shovels of sand and 3 shovels of gravel. (or some other accurate way to measure your ingredients)
Add the dry ingredients into a wheelbarrow or the electric mixer before you start adding water.
When you add more dry material to the mix, keep the 1:2:3 ratio of cement to sand to gravel the same for consistency and strength.
The amount of water you add to the mix will be based on how the mix feels while you’re mixing it. Use the wheelbarrow method above to judge how the final mix should look.
For more examples of proper concrete mix proportions check out my concrete mixing ratios for mixing concrete from cement, sand, gravel, and water.
Learn how many bags of concrete it takes to make a cubic yard.
what’s the best type of concrete mix to use for:
1. Best concrete mix for a driveway is:
2. Best concrete mix for concrete countertops
3. Best concrete mix for fence posts
4. Best concrete mix for a patio
5. Best concrete mix for sidewalks
6. Best concrete mix for footings
7. Best concrete mix for slabs
Quikrete 5000 or Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete 5000 (add 2 cups cement)
Quikrete Regular or Fast Setting Mix
Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete Regular Mix
Quikrete 5000, Crack Resistant, or Regular
This list is my opinion only based off my experience using Quikrete Concrete mixes for my jobs.
Sometimes I’ll mix 1/2 a bag of Quikrete 5000 with one of the other bag mixes because it has a higher ratio of cement in it. This makes the overall mixture a little easier to finish.
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