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May 11, Don’t Pour Your Own Concrete Slab Until You’ve Read This!

If you want to learn how to pour your own concrete slab I’ve written my helpful guide just for you. I’ve also made a video guide to teach you step by step.

Republished by Plato



This is my complete step by step guide that teaches you how to pour your own concrete slab.

Here are the steps:

  1. How to plan for the pour in advance
  2. How to calculate and order the concrete
  3. The tools you need to pour the slab
  4. What to do before the concrete truck arrives
  5. What to do when the concrete truck arrives
  6. Where to start pouring the concrete first
  7. How much concrete to pour out at one time
  8. What to do first after the concrete is poured out
  9. How to screed the concrete and get it level
  10. How to bull float the concrete to get a smooth surface
  11. Do you need to trowel the concrete?

If you want me to teach you how to form, pour, and finish your concrete slab, find out how HERE.

How to pour a concrete slabHow to pour your own concrete slab!

If you’ve never attempted pouring your own concrete slab before, I know it can seem a little intimidating.

Or, maybe you have tried pouring some concrete and it didn’t turn out quite like you wanted it to.

After reading through my step by step guide and watching my tutorial video, you will have all the information and knowledge you need to successfully install your concrete slab.

Step 1. How To Plan For The Pour In Advance

Before you actually pour the concrete slab there’s some things you need to think about and plan for in advance.

Here’s my advice and also what I do before pouring my slabs.

  • Pick a day when the weather is good. You don’t want to pour when there is any chance of rain in the forecast. Ideally, the temperatures want to be between 60 – 80 degrees and no wind.
  • Have plenty of help – depending on the size of your slab, you’ll want to have at least 2 other people helping you. 3 – 4 people is plenty of help for the average size garage slab.
  • Plan on starting to pour early in the morning. If you’re doing it on a Saturday I recommend starting at 7 or 8 am. You want to get in on the first round of concrete trucks if you can – trust me – you get fresh concrete and no waiting time.
  • Call in your concrete order to the Ready-Mix Company at least a week in advance. They’re very busy, if you wait until a day or two before you plan to pour, you probably won’t get it first thing in the morning or at maybe not at all. 

PRO TIP: If you order the concrete a week in advance and the weather changes during the week and now looks like there’s a chance of rain. Just call and cancel the order and RESCHEDULE! 

Don’t take a chance hoping it won’t rain. One 5 minute rain storm could ruin your concrete. Concrete cost way too much to take the risk it could be ruined by a short rain shower.

Step 2. How To Calculate And Order The Concrete

I have some simple formula’s I use to calculate concrete yardage for my concrete slabs.

I mostly use a concrete calculator – it really simplifies the process and makes it quick and easy for you.

But if you want to double check yourself using a formula, here’s one of the ones I use.

Length (in feet) x Width (in feet) x Depth (in feet)  / 27: This will give you your cubic yardage. (27 is how many cubic feet are in a cubic yard)

EXAMPLE: 20′ X 20′ X .33′ (4″ thick) / 27 = 4.89 cubic yards

20 x 20 = 400

400 x .33 = 132

132 / 27 = 4.88

For concrete slabs 5″ thick use .42′ for your depth

For concrete slabs 6″ thick use .50′ for your depth

If this was my slab and it figured 4.88 cubic yards and my sub-grade (gravel) was pretty level, I would order 5.5 cubic yards from the Ready-Mix company.

You don’t want to take a chance on running out of concrete. Trying to figure it too close to save a few bucks could end up costing you a lot more money.

Order at least 1/2 yard more than the slab figures – hopefully you got your sub-grade really level to make calculating the concrete really accurate.

If you run short and have to order a few more wheelbarrow’s of concrete, it will cost you a heck of a lot more than that 1/2 yard extra!

Step 2A. How To Call And Order The Concrete

Calling the ready-mix company is really easy. Just search for “concrete ready-mix near me” and the closest concrete delivery company’s will show up.

Start by calling the closest one to you and ask for the concrete dispatcher. Don’t forget to call at least a week in advance.

When you are talking to the dispatcher, this is what you say: “My name is (use your name), I’d like to pour a concrete slab on (the day you’re planning) and it figures (how many cubic yards). Do you have any (or a) trucks available for (7 am or 8 am).

If he/she says YES, then you can tell them you want a 3000 psi mix with 3/4″ stone.

If you live in an area that gets freeze/thaw conditions, ask for 3 – 5% air entrainment in the mix.

If you don’t have freeze/thaw (winter) conditions, you can use a no-air mix. 

If you already have wire mesh or rebar for reinforcement you’re good, if not, you can ask for fiber mesh in the concrete mix. This works similar to wire mesh for reinforcement.

It adds 6 – 8 dollars per yard to the cost. I personally use fiber mesh on most all of my slabs and floors whether they have wire or not.

Once all that information is given to the dispatcher, they’ll ask for your street address and you should be good to go.

Tell them you will call them the day before the pour and confirm (mainly due to the weather – if it looks like rain then reschedule)

If the dispatcher says NO, there’s a couple things you can do.

They may ask if you can go at 9 am or 10 am, if you’re good with that, then that’s up to you. I like to get the slab poured before the sun gets up too high. Just my preference. (if that’s the best available time, then take it)

1. Ask him/her when is the earliest you can get concrete there on that same day. If it’s 9 or 10am, then that’s going to be ok.

IF it’s noon time or later, I would pick another day. If you’re inexperienced, you don’t want to be pouring the slab (unless it’s really small) during the hottest part of the day with the sun beating down on you.

2. Call the next closest ready mix company and see if they have any availability on the day and time you want to schedule.

After you get your order on the books, ask them how they want you to pay for the concrete. They may want a check when the truck shows up, or you may be able to pay with a credit card over the phone.

That’s it, you now have your concrete ordered!

Step 3. The Tools You Need To Pour The Slab

These are the basic tools you’ll need to pour the concrete slab with links to Marshalltown (my supplier) and Amazon if you need them.

IMPORTANT: If you order any tools from Marshalltown, use my coupon code EAC. I have negotiated with them a special deal for you to get 10% off and free shipping.

You may also be able to rent most (or all) of these tools at your local tool rental shop.

  1. Screed or Straightedge (I like the 2″ x 12′ or 14′ ones)
  2. Bull Float (I like the 48×8 round edge one)
  3. Bull Float Handles (2) Get the ones that fit your bull float, either threaded or push button
  4. Kumalongs or Concrete Rakes
  5. Mag Float
  6. Laser Level and Grade Stick and Tripod
  7. Rubber Boots
  8. Gloves
  9. Chute Extension (Optional – only if you need extra reach)
  10. Wheel barrow (Optional – if you can’t reach with the chute extension)

Get my FREE PDF GUIDE that tells you everything you will need to form and pour your own concrete slab.

Step 4. What To Do Before The Concrete Truck Arrives On Site

Before the concrete truck arrives on site there’s a few things you want to do to be 100% ready:

  • Make sure your string line is tight (sometimes it loosens up overnight)
  • Make sure you have extra bracers (or kickers) and stakes for your forms – all ready to go in case your boards bow out. (watch my video to see why)
  • Set up your Laser and check the top of your forms again (it only takes a minute and ensures all the forms are level.
  • Get all your pouring tools out and ready to go.
  • Get your rubber boots on
  • Have a hose ready to wash off you tools when you’re done (if you don’t have access to a hose, the truck driver will let you use his when he is done washing down his truck)
  • Have a place where the truck driver can wash down his chutes. (He’ll need to rinse out just the concrete in his chutes – any leftover concrete in his truck, he can just bring back to the concrete plant and dump out. (unless you want it)

Step 5. What To Do When The Concrete Truck Arrives

How to pour a garage slabGet the chutes connected and mix the concrete to a workable slump

When the concrete truck arrives, you’ll want to motion to him/her to either drive in or back in. (depending on if it’s a front dump or rear dump truck)

When the truck is in place, the chutes go on (they usually have 2 or 3 to put on) and the driver starts to mix the concrete.


He or She will ask what “slump” you want. (how stiff or loose) you want the concrete mix.

I usually tell them I want between a 5 and 6 inch slump. This is a good workable mix that isn’t too loose (wet). If the slump is too loose it will weaken the mix.

As soon as the concrete is mixed, you ready to start pouring.

TIP: Have the driver run a little concrete down the chute and onto the ground, if it seems a little too stiff for you, ask him to add a little more water. (watch my video to see the slump we pour it at)

Step 6. Where To Start Pouring The Concrete First

How to pour a concrete slabStart pouring the concrete at the back of the slab

In most cases you’ll want to start pouring the concrete at the back of the slab and work you way towards the front.

If you can’t reach the back of the slab with the truck’s chutes, either use a chute extension, or wheel barrow as much of the concrete as you need to until the truck’s chutes will reach.

The truck’s chutes will usually reach about 20′ if you can get the truck right up to the front edge of the slab. From there you can pull the concrete with the kumalongs another 4 – 6 feet pretty easily.

So anything you need to reach that’s 28′ or more usually requires a chute extension or wheelbarrow to make it easier to place the concrete.

Step 7. How Much Concrete To Pour Out At One Time

Concrete slab foundationOn a slab like this, only pour out as much as you can handle. Maybe a 14′ x 14′ section to start

This is going to vary depending on your skill level and how large or small your slab is.

If you’ve never poured a slab before here’s what I recommend.

FIRST, I recommend you take my concrete slab course – it will show you and explain to you in detail how to pour the concrete slab.

It will also show you how to set the forms and prepare for the pour if you need that information also.

If it’s a small slab, say 10′ x 10′, pour out 90% of it, then mag your edges and screed it.

If it’s larger, say 24′ x 24′ or 30′ x 30′, just pour out a section a little larger than your screed, then make your wet pad and screed that section off, bull float it, and pour out another section.

If you have some experience pouring concrete or have done a slab or two, then you might feel more confident to pour out more before screeding it. 

Don’t let the concrete truck driver tell you that you have to pour it all out at once and he needs to wash down and get back. You should get about 7 minutes per yard to empty the load, after that they can charge you for extra wait time. 

Check on the concrete ticket when the driver shows up, it should say how much time you have to empty the truck.

Step 8. What To Do First, After The Concrete Is Poured Out

How to pour concretePour out at least one section as big as your screed. We like to pour out the whole truck.

Once you have a section poured out this is what you do:

  1. Mag float your edges – if you set the top of your forms to grade, mag the concrete smooth, even with the top of your forms.
  2. Use the laser level and grade stick to make your wet pad(s). This is what you’ll use to screed from in the middle of the slab.
  3. Make your screed pad by screeding a section of the concrete from your “wet pad” to the top of your forms. This is usually about a 2′ wide section.
How to pour a concrete slabMag the edges smooth and use the laser to make your wet pad.

Step 9. How To Screed The Concrete And Get It Level

diy concrete slab“Strike” your wet pad so you have something to go by when you screed the concrete

I have some videos I’ll link to below that will show you our technique on how to do this.

You’ll see how we “kick screed” the concrete level and also how we use a vibratory screed. Both ways work very good, choose the one you feel more comfortable with.

You can rent a vibratory screed, or buy one if you plan on pouring more concrete slabs. This is the one I recommend.

If you decide to purchase the Marshalltown Shockwave Screed, use coupon code EAC to get 10% off and free shipping.

If you choose to “kick screed”, you don’t have to kick the concrete like we do, you can just pull the screed 2 or 3 times towards you, stop, step back, and repeat this method.

Kicking and pulling the screed at the same time takes a little practice to get it right.

How to screed concreteScreed the concrete using your wet pad and the top of the form

Step 10. How To Bull Float The Concrete

Pouring a concrete slabTip the front edge UP when you push it out, LIFT up the back edge when you pull it back

In the videos you’ll see how we bull float the concrete after we screed it.

But basically, you set the bull float on the concrete where you first started screeding it.

Make sure the front edge of the bull float tips “up” a little bit (you don’t want it to dig in) and push the bull float over the surface of the concrete slowly until you reach the other end of the screeded concrete.

Then “tip up” the back edge of the bull float and pull it back towards you. If the surface looks smooth, you’re good, set over and bull float another section.

If the surface still looks a little rough (some aggregate is still showing) just repeat. Push and pull the bull float over it as many times as it takes to bring up the “cream or paste” and get the surface smooth.

This usually takes one or two passes to accomplish this.

Pour concrete slab foundationIt may take a couple passes to make the concrete smooth

Step 11. Do You Need To Trowel The Concrete?

How to pour a concrete slabBull Floated Smooth

After you’ve bull floated the concrete smooth, you can just leave the surface like that. It’s pretty smooth, maybe it has some lines from the bull float, but it’ll be easy enough to keep clean.


You could trowel the surface, either by hand or by using a power trowel.

Learn how to bull float and trowel concrete HERE.

I’ll have a video of each method below for you to take a look at. Both methods require some skill and there is a learning curve to each one.

One other method for getting the surface a little smoother than a bull float is to use a FRESNO. This tool is similar to a bull float but it’s more like a trowel and leaves the surface smoother after using it.

The Fresno would be used a short period of time after the bull float. Depends on the temperature and how fast the concrete is setting.

It might be 15 minutes, 30 minutes or 1 hour. Generally, it’s as soon as any surface water dries up but the concrete is still quite soft.

TIP: If you do purchase a Fresno from MarshallTown, use coupon code EAC to get an extra 10% off and free shipping. Also, pick one with rounded edges and one you can use the same bull float handles with.

You can watch us pour this concrete slab on YouTube HERE!

Don’t forget to “Like”, Share, and Subscribe to my Channel!

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Protecting Your Concrete Before Winter

With fall in full swing and the Louisiana heat finally starting to simmer down, it’s officially time to finish those yard enhancements that you’ve been putting off all summer. When preparing your yard for the freezes to come this winter, it’s important to include concrete in your checklist. All outdoor concrete surfaces need to be
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The post Protecting Your Concrete Before Winter appeared first on Port Aggregates.

Republished by Plato



With fall in full swing and the Louisiana heat finally starting to simmer down, it’s officially time to finish those yard enhancements that you’ve been putting off all summer. When preparing your yard for the freezes to come this winter, it’s important to include concrete in your checklist.

All outdoor concrete surfaces need to be protected before winter hits. As temperatures begin to drop below freezing, repeated freeze/thaw cycles will cause your concrete to expand and contract, resulting in unsightly cracks when spring begins.

How to prevent winter cracks

One of the best (and most appealing) ways to protect your concrete this winter is with a decorative finish. 

A decorative concrete finish gives your surface an extra layer of protection and durability without replacing the entire slab. You can also customize its appearance with an endless array of colors and patterns. 

These finishes act as a concrete treatment and can protect against erosion from heavy rains, repeated freeze/thaw cycles, unsightly stains caused by decomposing leaves, and grout deterioration. 

If you’re satisfied with the appearance of your concrete and are looking for a cheaper option, concrete sealer is another great way to protect your existing slab during the winter. This will help protect your concrete without changing its appearance. 

Additional benefits of a decorative concrete overlay

Decorative concrete overlays can cover any imperfections, including discoloration and cracks, and transform your slab into a beautiful and protective slab. 

Whether you choose stamped concrete, stained concrete, or imitation stone to restore your outdoor area, you can rest assured that it will stay protected for years to come. Even in the rapidly changing Louisiana climate. 

With a decorative concrete overlay, you can create the appearance of flagstone, slate, hardwood, or cobblestone without spending an arm and a leg on real stone. Because the overlay is sealed, it will be resistant to chipping, peeling, staining, and weathering.

Don’t wait another day to protect your concrete from this year’s winter. With the Louisiana weather being as crazy as it has been in 2020, there’s no telling what this winter will bring. Start taking steps to protect your driveway now and contact Port Aggregates for assistance. We look forward to helping you keep your concrete safe this winter!


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Rebuilding the Future of Concrete Construction with Smart Technology

While local preference in building materials varies from region to region, high-rise construction in the Greater Toronto Area, especially in the residential subcategory, is exclusively done with concrete. Despite concrete having been available since the days of Ancient Rome, 20th- and 21st-century technological advancements have made it the medium of choice for an expanding range of uses.  In a region […]

Republished by Plato



While local preference in building materials varies from region to region, high-rise construction in the Greater Toronto Area, especially in the residential subcategory, is exclusively done with concrete. Despite concrete having been available since the days of Ancient Rome, 20th- and 21st-century technological advancements have made it the medium of choice for an expanding range of uses. 

In a region like the GTA, with a variety of microclimates and underlying geological conditions, specialized types of concrete are being employed with increasing regularity. Customized formulations of concrete mixes now cater to foundations and caisson walls for sites with high water tables that need to be watertight, or road and water infrastructure that need particularly hardened varieties, and various other applications like industrial floors where standard concrete mixes aren’t necessarily up to the task.

One admixture manufacturer helping the construction industry create new varieties of concrete mixes is Kryton International Inc. For over four decades, Kryton has produced admixtures using Smart Concrete technology, which has allowed concrete producers and builders to give their concrete the necessary waterproofing and durability qualities. 

When Kryton first produced an admixture in the early 1980s, they developed a unique waterproofing admixture with a type of Smart Concrete technology known as Krystol® technology. With this feature, builders no longer needed to use waterproofing membranes. Instead, they could add Kryton’s admixture to their concrete mix, which would turn the concrete itself into a waterproof barrier. At any sign of water ingress then, the concrete would react, forming numerous needle-shaped crystals that fill up capillary pores and micro-cracks to prevent water from entering. 

Applications like this are especially important where construction of deep foundations spans a range of geological conditions. Our region’s glacial history and the resulting networks of ravines and waterways create challenging groundwater conditions for underground construction, while the need in dense areas and the desire in others to hide unsightly parking below ground are forcing builders to put their foundations deeper underground.

One such example is Terraces on the Park, a seven-storey building located in the Humber River valley in the Toronto suburb of Woodbridge. The site’s riverside location’s high water table and significant hydrostatic pressure means that waterproofing was critical for all underground concrete components. As a result, the foundation walls, slab-on-grade area, two levels of below grade parking, and the building’s exterior terraces were treated with Kryton’s Krystol Internal Membrane™ (KIM®) waterproofing admixture, while joints and tieholes were waterproofed with Kryton’s Krystol® Waterstop System. With Downtown Toronto situated on a former glacial lakebed and a proliferation of tall towers being built on reclaimed land on the waterfront, these waterproofing solutions have plenty of other potential applications in foundation construction around the city.

KIM technology was also incorporated into the concrete at the 2014-built Gibson Square Condominiums in North York City Centre, a project that may be more familiar to UrbanToronto readers. With construction already well underway at the time, Kryton’s products were used as a solution to waterproof a south foundation wall. With a constrained site footprint and no room for a trench to accommodate a traditional external waterproofing membrane, Kryton’s KIM admixture was added directly to the concrete mix for a faster, more cost-effective solution to the site-specific challenge. The benefits were immediately noted by the project team, who subsequently selected KIM for the waterproofing of the complex’s elevator pits.

A popular water feature in Toronto’s East Bayfront, Sherbourne Common, utilizes the same KIM waterproofing admixture for its lengthy concrete water channel, allowing the concrete to serve as an architectural finish without the need for additional water-sealing layers that could impact the aesthetic.

A more recent development in concrete admixtures produced by Kryton is being used in projects where increased abrasion resistance and durability are requirements. Projects like roads, hydro spillways, industrial flooring, agriculture, power generation, and marine structures are being built with the integral hardening admixture known as Hard-Cem®.

One local application of Hard-Cem was at the TTC’s new McNicoll Bus Garage, now late in its construction in Scarborough. The project’s construction team added Hard-Cem to the concrete used to form the building, increasing the hardness of the concrete paste and reducing wear loss and aggregate exposure due to abrasion. The result was a durable concrete structure capable of withstanding the constant surface abrasion and salt exposure associated with frequent bus movements.

This resistance to surface abrasion and salt exposure also makes this durable concrete a good candidate for warehouses and facilities that deal with harsh wear and tear throughout Ontario and the rest of Canada. There are plenty of examples of this, but a particularly significant one can be seen at Markham’s Earl Turcott Waste Management Facility. Considered to be the largest of its kind in Canada, this facility processes around 2,600 metric tons of waste and accommodates at least 350 vehicles. Despite the ongoing surface abrasion and erosive forces that result from this activity, the facility has stayed in working shape for over a decade with the help of Hard-Cem-treated concrete. 

Keeping in the spirit of Smart Concrete, Kryton’s latest big move came last year with the acquisition of a 30% interest in and North American distribution rights for a Denmark-based company producing advanced sensor technology known as Maturix®. This innovation attaches type K thermocouple cables to reinforcing steel, which will get immersed in concrete, and connects those cables to the sensors. That way, contractors only have to replace the cheap cables and can reuse these sensors for multiple projects. In return, the sensors monitor and log temperature data every 10 minutes and wirelessly transmit that data to Sigfox, a cloud-based platform. The platform then takes that data and time data to determine what strength the concrete currently has. Both temperature data and strength development data are then sent wirelessly to any connected device a contractor and their team chooses. All of which makes it easy to monitor concrete from anywhere at any time, giving the contractor, engineer, and any other team members the information they need to make critical decisions in a time-effective manner.

Overall, these updates to concrete construction will ensure that concrete remains the top material for thousands more years of civilization-shaping projects.

Excerpted From Urban Toronto


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Oct 4, Diy Concrete Driveway Cost – The Real Cost Of Doing It Yourself!

A concrete driveway costs between $6 – $8 dollars per square foot for plain gray concrete and $10 – $20 dollars per square foot for decorative concrete.

Republished by Plato



A concrete driveway costs from $6 to $8 dollars per square foot to install for plain gray concrete and from $10 to $20 dollars per square foot for a colored and stamped concrete driveway.

If you’re going to “do it yourself”, you will save some money on the labor costs. Labor costs of a concrete driveway usually range from 50% to 60% of the total costs of installation.

the average costs of a concrete driveway

The average concrete driveway costs between $2400.00 and $4800.00 to install based on a 400 square foot to 600 square foot driveway size. That’s based on a thickness of 4 inches with a 2 foot mat of rebar for reinforcement.

The gravel sub-base preparation could add  $1000.00 to $4000.00 to the total cost depending on how much gravel you need and if you have to demo and haul off an existing driveway.

Doing the work yourself you could save half of the costs above. Material costs for concrete and rebar for a 16′ x 25′ x 4″ concrete driveway will cost between $1000 and $1200 dollars.  

how much it costs to pour a 12′ x 40′ concrete driveway

Design and Gravel Prep
Forming and Reinforcement
Pouring the concrete
Finished concrete driveway

The costs breakdown for a 12′ by 40′ concrete driveway like the one we did above are below:

  1. Remove existing driveway and gravel prep – Labor 600.00 – Materials $600.00
  2. Forming & install reinforcement – Labor $750 – Materials $150
  3. Pouring & Finishing the concrete – Labor $1500 – Concrete $1100 (5″ thick)

Total cost of the concrete driveway: $4700.00

Deduct labor costs if you do it yourself: $4700 – $2850 = $1850.00 diy concrete driveway cost.

NOTE: These are my costs of labor and materials in my area, your actual costs for both of these may vary greatly depending on your situation.

basic tools for pouring a concrete driveway

Here’s a list of tools we use to pour and finish a basic plain gray broom finished concrete driveway:

Please note, these are affiliate links and I may make a small commission if you click through to Amazon and purchase these tools.

can i pour my own concrete driveway?

The basic steps for pouring a new concrete driveway are:

  1. Remove or demo the existing driveway (if needed)
  2. Design & Permits – Check with local building codes for permits & design specifications
  3. Excavation and gravel prep – install and compact gravel for the sub-base (the amount of gravel needed will vary depending on your conditions and climate.) 1 foot minimum gravel base.
  4. Install forms based on your design. Use 2×4’s or 2×6’s for straight forms and PVC boards for curves.
  5. Lay your reinforcement – Use 3/8″ or 1/2″ rebar and tie a mat 2 foot on center throughout the driveway then place bricks under it to hold it up in the middle of the concrete. Or use wire mesh.
  6. Calculate and order your concrete from the local ready mix concrete plant. (give them at least a weeks notice.)
  7. Pour the concrete level with the top of your forms, screed and bull float it smooth.
  8. Finishing the concrete – wait for the concrete to set up and use an edger to round the edges, mag float the surface, then drag a fine broom across the concrete to give it it’s final finish/texture.
  9. Saw contraction joints in the concrete the next day to help prevent cracking.
  10. Seal the concrete to protect it.

To learn how to work with concrete and the basic skills needed to install your own concrete driveway, check out  my concrete training academy The Concrete Underground.

other factors that add to the cost of installing a driveway

  • Your landscape – Is the area flat, slightly sloped, or steep. A steep sloped concrete driveway is more difficult to prep, pour, and finish which could add to the cost of installation.
  • The Driveway Size – A large driveway or a very long driveway would greatly add to the final cost. Concrete is a very expensive building material and adds about $150 per 65 sq. ft. of driveway.
  • How thick your concrete is – Driveway thickness contributes a large percentage  to the cost of a driveway. Concrete costs about $150 per yard – At 4″ thick that will cover 80 sq. ft. At 5″ thick that covers 65 sq. ft. At 6″ thick that covers 50 sq. ft.
  • Driveway design – Curved, circular, half moon shaped, or irregular angles may increase the material (and labor) costs. 
  • Adding color to the mix – Adding 1 bag of color per yard of concrete can add up to $80 per yard of concrete.
  • Stamping the concrete – Stamped concrete averages about $15 – $20 dollars per sq. ft. for labor and materials. 

how to build and pour a concrete driveway

The video below by Odell’s Complete Concrete will show you the basic steps it takes to build and install your own concrete driveway.

It shows you the demo and prep work, forming, pouring, and finishing process.


The diy concrete driveway costs above are figures I use when I give estimates for my customers in my area. 

These costs may change considerably depending on the cost of materials and labor in your area.

Please use these costs as a guide to help you consider whether or not you want to attempt to do your own concrete driveway or not.

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In need of some honest advice/opinions concerning the use of thc as a maladaptive coping mechanism and the use of cbd to combat it

Heartland3 days ago

Any success stories with smoking cessation?

Heartland3 days ago

BZA denies permit for hemp facility on Poplar

Heartland3 days ago

Anyone begin CBD as a skeptic?

Heartland19 hours ago

CBD is a life-saver for me.

Heartland5 days ago

Brand Spotlight: Cannabiotix

Heartland5 days ago

Just bought pre-rolls of hemp flower at a new head shop in Kentucky. The guy said they just legalized the sale of hemp flower like a month ago so they can sell it now but can’t find anything about it on the internet. Is it legal for me to own these?

News3 days ago

The First Medical Cannabis Dispensary in Virginia has Opened its Doors

Heartland5 days ago

[META] There should be a highly visible disclaimer about consulting with your doctor or pharmacist before consuming CBD products


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