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Jul 20, How do I reseal stamped concrete – Also what NOT to do before resealing

You’ll learn how to successfully reseal your stamped concrete pato, driveway, or pool deck. Also find out what NOT to do when resealing concrete.

Republished by Plato



How do I reseal stamped concrete?

Ok, I get it, your stamped concrete is looking a little faded, blotchy, or even kind of whitish on the surface.

And you want to restore it to its original look when the concrete was first sealed, right?

In theory, resealing your stamped concrete should be quite easy, but if you’re not careful, resealing it might make it look worse.

how do I reseal stamped concreteDoes your sealer look like this?

Very Important – How could applying new sealer make my concrete look worse?

Concrete sealers are designed to be applied very thin.

The manufacturer specifies on the label how many square feet per gallon of coverage. If they specify 300 square feet per gallon then that’s what you should do.

If you think applying it at 200 square feet per gallon is better because it’s a little thicker, you’re wrong.

Most sealers used for exterior stamped concrete are solvent or water based acrylic sealers. They are designed to allow moisture vapor to pass through them.

If you apply them too thick, moisture will get trapped on the surface of the concrete and under the layer of sealer causing “blushing” or whitish looking sealer.

Back to the question above, if you already have blushed (whitish) looking sealer that looks like a thick plastic coating, kind of peeling and flaking off, then applying a new coating of sealer over it will eventually trap more moisture and make the concrete look worse.

So this begs the question.


Well the answer to that is yes.

But we just don’t want to make it look worse.

If you’re like me, you like your stamped concrete looking new, clean, and either shiny or with more of a matte finish.

There’s just some things we have to do before we re-seal your stamped concrete driveway, patio or pool deck.


Can I use a pressure washer to clean stamped concrete?

Well the simple answer to that is yes! I recommend using a pressure washer but with a certain kind of tip.

Disclaimer: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. If you click on the link and purchase the product I receive a small commission. Thank You!

A 15″ rotary surface cleaner like this one you can get on Amazon,  will attach right to the end of your pressure washer wand and is the best way to clean your stamped concrete without damaging the concrete.

You’ll need a good pressure washer, preferably a 3100 – 3300 psi one, to get the best cleaning results if you use the rotary surface cleaner. If you don’t have one of that strength, you can rent one or buy one from Amazon like the one here.

You’re not trying to remove all the original concrete sealer. You just want to remove the dirt, tree pollen, mold & mildew and debris from the surface.

In the process of doing this, this surface cleaner will also remove any old,  loose, and flaking sealer that was originally applied.

If you feel like you still have some dirty areas after using the surface cleaner and you need to scrub the surface, you can use a stiff bristle broom and Dawn dish detergent or Simple Green mixed with water in a 5 gallon bucket.

Either way, Just rinse the concrete really good so no residue remains after it dries out.

When you’re done cleaning and washing the concrete it’s very important you let it dry out. Wait at least 24 hours, 48 would be better. Even though the concrete looks dry on the surface, there’s still a lot of moisture internally.


My step by step process – Watch me clean and re-seal this stamped concrete patio!

Most of the time, if there are any problems with old sealers, it’s from solvent acrylic based sealers.

Water-based concrete sealers mostly “soak into” the concrete and don’t leave much of a film on the surface. The concrete looks pretty much the same after sealing with a water based sealer as it did before the sealer was applied.

A lot less goes wrong with water based sealers but, in my opinion, they just don’t give stamped concrete that “wow” look after its been sealed.

So, the failing or worn solvent based sealer has to be addressed but that doesn’t mean you have to strip it off. Stripping old solvent based sealer is
messy and can be expensive if you have a lot to do.

In some cases it may be necessary, like if the sealer has a thicker, plastic look to it and it turned mostly white.  But most of the time it’s not.

All you have to do to re-seal is make sure the new sealer has good adhesion to the old sealer. 

What type of sealer should I use to adhere to the old sealer?

Most stamped concrete contractors like myself use solvent acrylic based sealers on our stamped concrete projects.

The solvent sealers make the colors “POP” and generally work the best. Especially for exterior stamped concrete.

I recommend Foundation Armor’s AR 350 Solvent Based WET Look Acrylic based stamped concrete sealer.

This sealer will darken the concrete and enhance the color in the concrete, while leaving you with a nice Satin Sheen (low gloss) on the surface.

You can buy it on Amazon and get it shipped right to your house.

If you prefer a HIGH GLOSS shine to your stamped concrete, I would consider using Foundation Armor’s AR 500 High Gloss Sealer.

This sealer will make the colors “POP” and give you that high shine, brand new, look you’re looking for.

Both sealers are great products that will protect your stamped concrete as well as make it look awesome!

Will the surface be slippery after I seal it?

It could be. You are applying a topical sealer to the surface of the concrete. Most any surface will be a little slippery when it gets wet after it’s been sealed.

If you’re worried about your stamped concrete being slippery, you can add Foundation Armor’s NON-SLIP ADDITIVE to the sealer when you apply it.

This will help make the surface less slippery than if you just seal the surface without it.

How do I apply the sealer?

This is what I use to apply the sealer. It’s Sprayers Plus 20ACT acetone concrete sealer sprayer.

You need a good sprayer! If you use a cheap one, the solvents in the sealer will destroy the seals and make the sealer useless.

This sprayer has special seals that won’t get damaged when you use a solvent based sealer.

You can also get this on Amazon.

How to re-seal stamped concrete

This pump up sprayer also has a very fine tip that gives you a nice evenly sprayed surface. Other sprayers tips just spray out too much sealer and you end up with an uneven look and too much sealer on the surface.

We clean out the sprayer after each use with the same solvent that’s in the sealer (straight acetone or xylene) and you can re-use it over and over again for years.

Just dump in 8 – 10 oz after you empty out any left over sealer, pump it up and spray it out. Repeat one more time and your sprayer, and the tip, is clean.

Sealing the concrete – What to do first!

OK, ok, so you’ve got your concrete clean and dry. You’ve got your sealer and sprayer ready to go.

Fill the sprayer about 3/4 full, tighten the top and pump up the sprayer until it’s really hard to pump.

It’s got to be a nice day out with no chance of rain in the forecast. The best time of day is late afternoon when the sun is setting and the temps are 70 – 80 degrees F.  

NOTE: You can also apply the sealer with a 9 or 18 inch paint roller. Don’t forget the roller frame and tray if you decide to do it this way.

I personally prefer spraying the sealer, I think you can apply it thinner and more evenly with the sprayer.

Apply the new sealer with your sprayer

Start at one end and work your way backwards to the other end. Spray the sealer in a circular motion. Don’t over spray, keep it very thin. You’re going to spray a 2nd coat so you’ll get good coverage.

The best method to apply the sealer is to spray it and have someone right behind you back-rolling with a paint roller.

Kind of think of it as mixing the new sealer into the old sealer. The new sealer must mix with the old in order to release trapped moisture (those white areas) and reactivate the previously applied sealer.

Reactivating the old sealer will melt the ugly, flaky, and blushing areas all at once, releasing any moisture and making it look like new again.

The reactivating process requires a little more than just a pump up sprayer application. You are going to have to agitate the sealer as you apply it.

By agitating, I mean having someone back-rolling.

Solvent based sealers usually dry very fast, so you won’t have much time to agitate.

It’s best to do the worse looking areas first, let them dry and then reseal the rest of the stamped concrete. Back-rolling the sealer will also keep you from getting any puddles. Puddled areas of new sealer will be too thick and could trap moisture.

How much sealer will I need?

Whenever I seal or reseal stamped concrete, I like to go very thin with the first coat. I might spray it on as thin as 500 sq. ft. per gallon.

It’s so thin, it looks like I’m missing some areas.

how do I re-seal stamped concrete

The goal is to use as little as necessary to get the job done. Less problems that way.

This first coat usually dries in 20 – 30 minutes. If I think I need a second coat I’ll wait until the first is completely tack free and spray on another one at 400 sq. ft. per gallon.

How often do you need to re-seal stamped concrete?

Most of the time, every 2 – 3 years. I depends on things like, foot traffic, sunlight, and weather conditions. 

Acrylic sealers just aren’t designed to last forever. The sun degrades them, foot traffic wears it off, and harsh weather conditions will eventually make it whiten or flake off.

Maintaining the stamped concrete by keeping it clean and re-sealing when needed (2 – 3) years, will keep the concrete looking as new as possible.

Can Xylene be used on stamped concrete?

TIP: To clear up whitened, cracked, and hazy looking concrete sealer, sometimes it’s better to try and re-melt the existing acrylic solvent based sealer with an application of xylene (xylol).

Xylene is a strong solvent that re-wets acrylic solvent based concrete sealers making them look new again.

Applying xylene by using a pump-up sprayer, roller, or brush rejuvenates the existing old sealer to its original appearance. By trying this method
first, you may get the original sealer to look smooth, shiney and clear without adding another coating of sealer.

What xylene won’t do is seal any areas where the old sealer has completely peeled, flaked, or worn off. You might try a xylene application first, wait a few hours for that to dry, then reseal everything with a very light coat of new sealer.


If you view the concrete at an angle and the surface has some sheen, it probably has some sealer on it.

Another way to test for existing sealer is after the concrete has been completely cleaned, place a few drops of water on it.

If the concrete immediately darkens, the sealer is gone. If the water beads up, even for a few seconds, there’s still some sealer on or in the concrete.


If your stamped concrete is just dull looking with no white spots or flaking, then just a simple cleaning and re-seal should be enough to make it look like new again.


  • When the temperature is 80 degrees or hotter
  • In direct sunlight in the middle of the day
  • Early in the morning when there’s dew on the ground
  • When it rained the day before
  • When there’s a chance of rain the day of
  • When it might rain the day after.
  • When the temperature is below 55 degrees
  • When it’s windy outside
  • When the existing sealer just looks like it’s too thick (this is when you’ll have to strip it off and start over)


  • When the temperature is between 55 and 80 degrees
  • Late in the afternoon or early evening when the sun is going down
  • When you have multiple days of dry, sunny weather

I have less problems sealing concrete later in the day when the temperature of the concrete is going down versus sealing in the morning when the sun is warming the concrete up.

If you seal in the morning, the concrete could have some moisture in it just from the dampness in the overnight air.

Ever seen that moisture (dew) on your grass in the morning.

Then as the sun warms up the concrete, the moisture will escape the concrete as vapor. If you seal the surface, the vapor could cause blisters, bubbles, and blushing.


It’s a good idea and good maintenance to re-seal your stamped concrete.

Watch my video above, I break down each step from cleaning to sealing your concrete.

If you have a question, you can watch the video on YouTube and ask a question in the comments section. I try to answer all questions asked on that platform.

Mike Day

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Why Does Concrete Crack?

One of the biggest hesitations people have when it comes to choosing concrete for their projects is that it cracks over time. While this practical, durable material is one of the strongest goods on the market, the forces of time and nature will eventually cause it to crack–especially if it’s been installed by a non-reputable
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The post Why Does Concrete Crack? appeared first on Port Aggregates.

Republished by Plato



One of the biggest hesitations people have when it comes to choosing concrete for their projects is that it cracks over time.

While this practical, durable material is one of the strongest goods on the market, the forces of time and nature will eventually cause it to crack–especially if it’s been installed by a non-reputable company.

But why does concrete crack, and is there anything that will prevent this from happening?

These 5 mistakes are some of the most common causes of concrete cracks.

1. The concrete dried too fast

Faster is not always better. If your concrete mix doesn’t have enough water in it, it will dry too quickly and crack prematurely. Depending on the project, it should take at least a few weeks, maybe even a month, to dry completely.

2. Your contractor put too much water in the mix

Poorly mixed concrete can create a range of problems. Just like having too little water in the mix can cause it to crack, so can having too much water. Water must combine with the concrete at just the right pace so that it can cure and set properly. 

3. Control joints weren’t used

Your concrete must be able to properly expand and contract in different temperatures, otherwise it’ll crack. Control joints are made specifically to help your concrete move about without breaking. 

If your contractor doesn’t use these joints, there won’t be extra room for the slab to adjust its size with the changing temperatures, and it will end up cracking due to its internalized pressure.

4. It was too cold when your concrete was poured

Just like the amount of water affects concrete’s hydration process, so does cold weather. When the temperature drops too low, concrete won’t be able to cure correctly. In these situations, the pour will either need to be postponed, or the subsurface will need to be warmed before pouring. 

5. Your concrete is too thin

Concrete that’s too thin is extremely susceptible to cracking. The proper thickness of your concrete will vary based on its purpose. For example, a driveway that’s meant to support vehicles needs to be thicker than a sidewalk that is not.

Improper concrete thickness is one of the top reasons why DIY concrete projects fail. When taking on a massive project like this on your own, it’s easy to miscalculate the weight your concrete will be expected to bear and the subsequent thickness necessary. Unfortunately, this will result in severe premature cracking.

At Port Aggregates, our contractors have 40 years’ worth of experience built into their pours. Our beautiful concrete has been trusted for decades with good reason. When you hire our professionals, you can say goodbye to premature cracking and rest assured that your slab has been installed properly. Contact us today to request a quote!


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Jan 2, How To Form and Pour A Concrete Slab – The #1 Resource on The Web

Learn how to form and pour a concrete slab. My step by step guide will teach you everything you need to know from forming to pouring to finishing.

Republished by Plato



how to pour concrete
how to pour a concrete slab

The tools and materials you need to form and pour a concrete slab


  • Ready-mix concrete (yardage will depend on size of slab)
  • Wire mesh or Rebar reinforcement
  • Anchor bolts

If your concrete slab is smaller, you can use bags of concrete instead or ready-mix.

Find out how many bags of concrete it takes to make a yard. I did all the calculations for you.

On my Tools Page you can find all the tools required to form and pour concrete.

I also have a concrete yardage calculator that shows you how many yards you need and how many bags of concrete you’ll need.

tools used to form and pour a concrete slab

step by step: how to pour a concrete pad

These are the basic steps I use form and pour concrete slabs. 

I also have a step by step video course with multiple training videos that teaches you all you need to know about how to install your own concrete slab: My Concrete Slab Course

step 1. prepare the area for concrete

how to pour concrete slab prep

Under your concrete slab there should be a compacted base of gravel. You can also use road base, crushed rock, or sand, as long as it’s well compacted.

You’ll probably have to remove some of the existing soil like in the picture above. We removed about 12 inches of the existing sod & loam and replaced it with 8″ of 3/4″ crushed gravel.

This area had a slight slope, so we had to remove more soil on one side than the other to get a level pad.

After installing the gravel, we raked it level (using my laser level) and ran a vibratory compactor over it to settle it and pack it very hard.

NOTE: You may need a permit to install a slab. Contact your local building code officer to see what they require for building a slab. You may also have to keep it a certain distance away from your property line.

PRO TIP: If you have a lot of soil to remove, you can rent a skid steer to do it much easier or hire an excavation contractor to prep the area for you.

BE SAFE: Some states require you to call Dig Safe (811) to check for any underground wires or utilities before you start digging. It’s state law. It’s a free service so be safe.

step 2. building the forms for a concrete slab

Lay out your forms. It’s better to have forms that are a little longer than the size of your slab.

Set up your leveling device. I’m using a self-leveling laser. You can use a 4′ level or a transit level. All 3 will get the job done.

My slab size is 14′ x 10′.

Starting on one side, measure the length of your slab and mark it on the form. (my mark was at 14′ on this side)

Mark each side the same way. (my next side was 10′)

You’ll use these marks to screw the forms together in the next step.

how to pour concrete slab
how to form a concrete slab

step 3. screw the forms together and square the slab

Use your marks to screw the forms together.

Align the inside of the form with your pencil mark. 

You can use a drill driver and deck screws like we do or you can use a hammer and nails to fasten the forms together.

I personally like to use screws, there’s less movement to the forms because you’re not banging on them with a hammer.

Screws are also easier to take out when you go to remove the forms.

After the forms are fastened together it’s time to square the slab.

I measure diagonally each way and slide the forms a little one way or the other until I get the exact same measurement for both diagonal measurements.

It usually takes a few times going back and forth checking until you get it exact.

When you have the slab square, you’re ready to stake it in place.

step 4. stake the forms and set them to grade

Use wooden stakes (or metal pins like me) to secure the forms in place. 

I like to stake each corner, about 8 – 12 inches from the corner, on both sides.

After my 4 corners are staked, I hammer in a stake about every 4′ on all the sides.

To make sure the forms are straight, I use a string line on top of the forms to check them as I stake the forms in place.

After pounding in all the stakes, I use my laser level to set all the forms perfectly level.

The receiver on my grade stick has a solid sounding “beep” when the form is at the pre-determined height. (5″ above my dirt grade)

Screw the form to the stake when it’s at the level you want.

Repeat for all 4 corners, then do the rest of the stakes and your forms will be level.

step 5. add the reinforcement 

wire mesh for a concrete slab

It’s time to install the reinforcement, I’m using wire mesh for this slab. The best way to cut wire mesh is with a pair of bolt cutters.

I buy the flat sheets of mesh, they measure 5′ x 10′. Some local lumber companies stock the flat wire. If not, they usually have the rolls of mesh (5′ x 150′ get these at HD and Lowe’s also)

Another good reinforcement to use for concrete slabs is 3/8 (#3) rebar or 1/2″ (#4) rebar. Rebar comes in 10′ or 20′ lengths and you cut it to the length you need.

Install rebar in 2′ or 3′ grids and tie it together using zip ties or a wire twister tool and wire ties.

If you use rebar and have to cut it, you can rent a rebar cutter at HD or a local tool rental store. Or you can buy a good rebar cutter / bender on Amazon.

10 x 10 concrete slab

After the wire mesh goes in, you’re ready to pour the concrete. If you’re using ready-mix concrete, choose a nice, dry day and call your local concrete supplier to schedule the pour.

Most likely you’ll have to give them about a weeks notice so don’t wait till the last minute to call.

If you’re using bags of concrete, use my concrete yardage calculator to see how many bags you’ll need.

Learn how to mix concrete by hand here.

step 6. how to pour the concrete

how to pour concrete for a slab

When the concrete arrives, ask the mixer driver for for a 6 inch slump. Slump is how dry or wet the concrete is mixed. A 6 slump is a good workable mix to pour with.

Start pulling the concrete around and filling in the forms. Pull up the wire mesh or rebar into the concrete as you pour. (or you can put small pieces of brick under it to hold it up)

Pour out as much as you’re comfortable with (maybe about half on something like this if you’re a beginner) before you screed it level.

how to pour concrete

If you’re mixing bagged concrete for your slab, it’s the same process. Just slower.

Mix enough concrete until you have enough of the forms filled to screed the concrete.

I like to use ready mix myself. It’s just faster and more convenient for me since we do multiple pours like this in a day. Either way is good. Ready mix will be more expensive on a smaller slab vs bag mix.

See how many bags of concrete come on a pallet and what they cost.

how to pour concrete

Screed the concrete level using a magnesium screed board like us or a straight 2 x 4. Use short pulling strokes and tip the screed slightly on the back edge.

Put pressure down on the screed as you pull it to make sure it rides on top of the forms. Let your helpers push concrete (to fill low spots) and pull concrete back (if it’s high) as you screed.

The concrete rakes (kumalongs) we use make moving the concrete around a lot easier.

how to bull float concrete

After you screed the concrete, use a bull float to smooth the surface.

A bull float pushes down the aggregate on the surface and brings up some cement paste (creme).

Tip up the front edge and slowly push it from one side to the other. When you reach the opposite side, stop, tip up the back edge and slowly pull it back to you.

It might take multiple passes in the same spot to get it nice and smooth (usually 1 – 3 times).

After you’ve done the entire slab this way, you’re almost done with the pour.

step 7. installing anchor bolts in concrete (optional)

how to install anchor bolts in a slab

If you’re using anchor bolts, now is the time to put them in the concrete. Measure out where you want them and make a mark in the concrete.

Push the anchor bolt into the concrete to the desired level you want. I usually leave about 2 inches sticking up out of the concrete.

PRO TIP: Once you push it into the concrete a few inches, slightly jiggle it up and down to consolidate the concrete around the bolt as you set it to your finished level.

Now you’re done pouring the concrete.

Learn how to pour and finish concrete in my private training academy The Concrete Underground.

watch and i’ll show you how to pour a concrete slab

If you’re thinking of doing a broom finish, smooth trowel finish, or a textured finish on the concrete, I can show you how to finish the concrete HERE.

Another very important step is to “cure” the concrete. Click on CONCRETE SEALER to learn about this.

You can remove the forms the next day. 

Return from How To Pour Concrete to Concrete Slab

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Jan 2, How To Mix Concrete – The Most In Depth Guide On The Internet

Learn how to mix concrete by hand using a wheelbarrow, concrete mixing machine, bucket or a tub. Detailed instructions and a video shows you how mix concrete.

Republished by Plato



diy how to mix concrete at home

I’ll teach you my method of how to mix concrete: to get the proper firmness, texture, and strength.

tools you need for mixing concrete

Warning: Always wear safety gloves, safety goggles, and a dust mask when working with concrete.

Materials used for mixing concrete

  1. Concrete bag mix
  2. Water
  3. Portland cement – sand – gravel – optional if you’re mixing concrete from scratch.

Video: shows you how mix concrete by hand using quikrete

Owner Mike Day of Day’s Concrete Floors shows you how to properly mix concrete to repair a broken section of pool deck.

step by step: how to mix concrete

step 1. set up your mixing area

If you’re mixing multiple bags of concrete it’s a lot easier and faster if you have your mixing area organized.

If you’re only mixing one or two bags (like in the video) then all you need is your bag(s) of concrete, wheelbarrow, water, hoe.

On bigger projects it’s important to get all your bags in order and have plenty of water on hand. Having 2 people mixing and one spreading and smoothing the concrete makes the work go a lot faster.

How to mix concrete

step 2. measure the proper amount of water

I like to pre-measure the amount of water needed per bag and add it to the wheelbarrow first. 

I feel putting the water in first, then adding the dry concrete ingredients, makes the mixing process easier and faster.

how much mixing water to mix concrete

The water table below shows you how much water to use per bag. 

Depending on the bag size, there’s a range of water you can add for mixing.

For and 80 lb. bag of Quikrete, you can use 6 pints to 9 pints (3 – 4.5 quarts) of water to mix each bag.

I like to add the minimum amount to the wheelbarrow first, then add more water up to the maximum if I feel it needs it to get a good workable mixture.

If you use more water than the maximum amount recommended, then your concrete mix will not be as strong as advertised on the bag. 

mixing water for Quikrete

step 3. add the bag mix to your wheelbarrow (tub, bucket, or mixer)

how to mix Quikrete

Add about 1/2 to 2/3’s of the bag mix into the wheelbarrow. Mix that amount with the water until all the dry ingredients are saturated. 

Add the rest of the bag and keep mixing. Use this same technique if you’re mixing in a bucket or a tub.

If you’re mixing in an electric concrete mixer machine, then you can add the whole bag at one time.

how to mix bags of concreteMix half to two-thirds of the bag first then add the rest

step 4. mix the concrete to a workable consistency

Add the remainder of the bag and continue to mix the concrete. Move the hoe back and forth completely mixing the dry concrete mix with the water.

how to mix concrete by handToo dry – add more water and keep mixing

Add more water (up to the maximum amount) until you get your desired consistency.

Your concrete mix should look similar to the concrete below when it’s mixed properly.

It took me about 3 minutes to measure and add the water, then mix the 1 bag of concrete to this texture. 

Be careful not to get the mix too wet or it’s more likely to crack and won’t be as strong.

If you feel the concrete mix is too runny (wet) just add some more concrete mix from another bag until you feel it looks like the picture below.

PRO TIP: Always have an extra bag of concrete on hand just in case your project takes more concrete than you expected it to.

how to mix concrete in a wheelbarrowThis is what a good workable consistency looks like

step 5. place the mixed concrete where you need it

A good thing about mixing concrete in a wheelbarrow is you can wheel the concrete right where you need it.

Dump the concrete out of the wheelbarrow or shovel it out, like I’m doing on this job.

how to mix concrete

One way you can tell if you mixed the concrete properly is if you can move the concrete in place using a mag float and float it smooth going back and forth over it a few times.

how to mix concrete by hand

step 6. clean the concrete off your tools as soon as possible

Clean the wheelbarrow, hoe, and shovel with water as soon as you finish. The concrete mix will dry on them very quickly. 

PRO TIP: If the concrete mixture dries on your tools, use a margin trowel to scrape it off first, then rinse and scrub with water.

If you have a water hose and a stiff bristle brush nearby, rinse off the bulk of the concrete first, scrub the remaining cement paste, and rinse clean.

Do this in an area you don’t have to clean up the washed off concrete afterwards. Never wash off concrete onto your driveway or garage floor, it could permanently stain it.

how to mix concrete in a bucket

how to mix concrete with a drill

When I mix concrete in a  bucket, I like to have an over-sized bucket like this 18 gallon bucket in the picture. (best place to buy this is on Amazon)

I also like to use a mixing drill to mix my bags of concrete. A mixing drill like this one makes the mixing process very fast and is really the only way to mix concrete using a bucket.

The mixing process is the same as above: Add your water first, add 1/2 bag and mix, add remainder of bag and mix, add water up to the max. amount if needed. 

how to mix concrete in a mixer

If you’re using an electric concrete mixer machine it’ll speed up the mixing process because you can mix 2 – 3 bags of concrete at one time. (depending on the size of your mixer)

How to mix concrete in a mixer

The Mixing Process Goes Like This:

  1. Pre-measure your water and add it to the mixer first.
  2. Turn on the mixer before you add the first bag of concrete
  3. Add the first bag and let it mix for a minute (2 minutes if you’re only mixing one bag)
  4. Add the second bag and continue to mix for 2 – 3 minutes
  5. If the mix looks too dry add a little water as it’s mixing (only add water up to the max. amount)
how to mix concrete in an electric mixer

When the concrete looks mixed to the right consistency, dump it out of the mixer and into a wheelbarrow.

You can buy a really good portable electric concrete mixer machine on Amazon for $200 to $300 dollars.

what is the ratio for mixing concrete?

How do you mix your own concrete? 

If you’re using Portland cement, sand, and gravel to make your own concrete, you can use the 1-2-3 mixing ratio.

This concrete mixing ratio is done by mixing 1 shovel of cement with 2 shovels of sand and 3 shovels of gravel. (or some other accurate way to measure your ingredients)

Add the dry ingredients into a wheelbarrow or the electric mixer before you start adding water.

When you add more dry material to the mix, keep the 1:2:3 ratio of cement to sand to gravel the same for consistency and strength.

The amount of water you add to the mix will be based on how the mix feels while you’re mixing it. Use the wheelbarrow method above to judge how the final mix should look.

For more examples of proper concrete mix proportions check out my concrete mixing ratios for mixing concrete from cement, sand, gravel, and water. 

Learn how many bags of concrete it takes to make a cubic yard.

what’s the best type of concrete mix to use for:

1. Best concrete mix for a driveway is:

2. Best concrete mix for concrete countertops

3. Best concrete mix for fence posts

4. Best concrete mix for a patio

5. Best concrete mix for sidewalks

6. Best concrete mix for footings

7. Best concrete mix for slabs

Quikrete 5000 or Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix

Quikrete 5000 (add 2 cups cement)

Quikrete Regular or Fast Setting Mix

Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix

Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix

Quikrete Regular Mix

Quikrete 5000, Crack Resistant, or Regular

This list is my opinion only based off my experience using Quikrete Concrete mixes for my jobs.

Sometimes I’ll mix 1/2 a bag of Quikrete 5000 with one of the other bag mixes because it has a higher ratio of cement in it. This makes the overall mixture a little easier to finish.

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