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Jul 20, How do I reseal stamped concrete – Also what NOT to do before resealing

You’ll learn how to successfully reseal your stamped concrete pato, driveway, or pool deck. Also find out what NOT to do when resealing concrete.

Republished by Plato

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How do I reseal stamped concrete?

Ok, I get it, your stamped concrete is looking a little faded, blotchy, or even kind of whitish on the surface.

And you want to restore it to its original look when the concrete was first sealed, right?

In theory, resealing your stamped concrete should be quite easy, but if you’re not careful, resealing it might make it look worse.

how do I reseal stamped concreteDoes your sealer look like this?





Very Important – How could applying new sealer make my concrete look worse?

Concrete sealers are designed to be applied very thin.

The manufacturer specifies on the label how many square feet per gallon of coverage. If they specify 300 square feet per gallon then that’s what you should do.

If you think applying it at 200 square feet per gallon is better because it’s a little thicker, you’re wrong.

Most sealers used for exterior stamped concrete are solvent or water based acrylic sealers. They are designed to allow moisture vapor to pass through them.

If you apply them too thick, moisture will get trapped on the surface of the concrete and under the layer of sealer causing “blushing” or whitish looking sealer.

Back to the question above, if you already have blushed (whitish) looking sealer that looks like a thick plastic coating, kind of peeling and flaking off, then applying a new coating of sealer over it will eventually trap more moisture and make the concrete look worse.

So this begs the question.

SHOULD I RESEAL MY STAMPED CONCRETE?

Well the answer to that is yes.

But we just don’t want to make it look worse.

If you’re like me, you like your stamped concrete looking new, clean, and either shiny or with more of a matte finish.

There’s just some things we have to do before we re-seal your stamped concrete driveway, patio or pool deck.

CLEANING AND RE-SEALING
STAMPED CONCRETE

Can I use a pressure washer to clean stamped concrete?

Well the simple answer to that is yes! I recommend using a pressure washer but with a certain kind of tip.

Disclaimer: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. If you click on the link and purchase the product I receive a small commission. Thank You!

A 15″ rotary surface cleaner like this one you can get on Amazon,  will attach right to the end of your pressure washer wand and is the best way to clean your stamped concrete without damaging the concrete.

You’ll need a good pressure washer, preferably a 3100 – 3300 psi one, to get the best cleaning results if you use the rotary surface cleaner. If you don’t have one of that strength, you can rent one or buy one from Amazon like the one here.

You’re not trying to remove all the original concrete sealer. You just want to remove the dirt, tree pollen, mold & mildew and debris from the surface.

In the process of doing this, this surface cleaner will also remove any old,  loose, and flaking sealer that was originally applied.

If you feel like you still have some dirty areas after using the surface cleaner and you need to scrub the surface, you can use a stiff bristle broom and Dawn dish detergent or Simple Green mixed with water in a 5 gallon bucket.

Either way, Just rinse the concrete really good so no residue remains after it dries out.

When you’re done cleaning and washing the concrete it’s very important you let it dry out. Wait at least 24 hours, 48 would be better. Even though the concrete looks dry on the surface, there’s still a lot of moisture internally.

RE-SEALING STAMPED CONCRETE – THE PROCESS

My step by step process – Watch me clean and re-seal this stamped concrete patio!

Most of the time, if there are any problems with old sealers, it’s from solvent acrylic based sealers.

Water-based concrete sealers mostly “soak into” the concrete and don’t leave much of a film on the surface. The concrete looks pretty much the same after sealing with a water based sealer as it did before the sealer was applied.

A lot less goes wrong with water based sealers but, in my opinion, they just don’t give stamped concrete that “wow” look after its been sealed.

So, the failing or worn solvent based sealer has to be addressed but that doesn’t mean you have to strip it off. Stripping old solvent based sealer is
messy and can be expensive if you have a lot to do.

In some cases it may be necessary, like if the sealer has a thicker, plastic look to it and it turned mostly white.  But most of the time it’s not.

All you have to do to re-seal is make sure the new sealer has good adhesion to the old sealer. 

What type of sealer should I use to adhere to the old sealer?

Most stamped concrete contractors like myself use solvent acrylic based sealers on our stamped concrete projects.

The solvent sealers make the colors “POP” and generally work the best. Especially for exterior stamped concrete.

I recommend Foundation Armor’s AR 350 Solvent Based WET Look Acrylic based stamped concrete sealer.

This sealer will darken the concrete and enhance the color in the concrete, while leaving you with a nice Satin Sheen (low gloss) on the surface.

You can buy it on Amazon and get it shipped right to your house.

If you prefer a HIGH GLOSS shine to your stamped concrete, I would consider using Foundation Armor’s AR 500 High Gloss Sealer.

This sealer will make the colors “POP” and give you that high shine, brand new, look you’re looking for.

Both sealers are great products that will protect your stamped concrete as well as make it look awesome!

Will the surface be slippery after I seal it?

It could be. You are applying a topical sealer to the surface of the concrete. Most any surface will be a little slippery when it gets wet after it’s been sealed.

If you’re worried about your stamped concrete being slippery, you can add Foundation Armor’s NON-SLIP ADDITIVE to the sealer when you apply it.

This will help make the surface less slippery than if you just seal the surface without it.

How do I apply the sealer?

This is what I use to apply the sealer. It’s Sprayers Plus 20ACT acetone concrete sealer sprayer.

You need a good sprayer! If you use a cheap one, the solvents in the sealer will destroy the seals and make the sealer useless.

This sprayer has special seals that won’t get damaged when you use a solvent based sealer.

You can also get this on Amazon.

How to re-seal stamped concrete

This pump up sprayer also has a very fine tip that gives you a nice evenly sprayed surface. Other sprayers tips just spray out too much sealer and you end up with an uneven look and too much sealer on the surface.

We clean out the sprayer after each use with the same solvent that’s in the sealer (straight acetone or xylene) and you can re-use it over and over again for years.

Just dump in 8 – 10 oz after you empty out any left over sealer, pump it up and spray it out. Repeat one more time and your sprayer, and the tip, is clean.

Sealing the concrete – What to do first!

OK, ok, so you’ve got your concrete clean and dry. You’ve got your sealer and sprayer ready to go.

Fill the sprayer about 3/4 full, tighten the top and pump up the sprayer until it’s really hard to pump.

It’s got to be a nice day out with no chance of rain in the forecast. The best time of day is late afternoon when the sun is setting and the temps are 70 – 80 degrees F.  

NOTE: You can also apply the sealer with a 9 or 18 inch paint roller. Don’t forget the roller frame and tray if you decide to do it this way.

I personally prefer spraying the sealer, I think you can apply it thinner and more evenly with the sprayer.

Apply the new sealer with your sprayer

Start at one end and work your way backwards to the other end. Spray the sealer in a circular motion. Don’t over spray, keep it very thin. You’re going to spray a 2nd coat so you’ll get good coverage.

The best method to apply the sealer is to spray it and have someone right behind you back-rolling with a paint roller.

Kind of think of it as mixing the new sealer into the old sealer. The new sealer must mix with the old in order to release trapped moisture (those white areas) and reactivate the previously applied sealer.

Reactivating the old sealer will melt the ugly, flaky, and blushing areas all at once, releasing any moisture and making it look like new again.

The reactivating process requires a little more than just a pump up sprayer application. You are going to have to agitate the sealer as you apply it.

By agitating, I mean having someone back-rolling.

Solvent based sealers usually dry very fast, so you won’t have much time to agitate.

It’s best to do the worse looking areas first, let them dry and then reseal the rest of the stamped concrete. Back-rolling the sealer will also keep you from getting any puddles. Puddled areas of new sealer will be too thick and could trap moisture.

How much sealer will I need?

Whenever I seal or reseal stamped concrete, I like to go very thin with the first coat. I might spray it on as thin as 500 sq. ft. per gallon.

It’s so thin, it looks like I’m missing some areas.

how do I re-seal stamped concrete

The goal is to use as little as necessary to get the job done. Less problems that way.

This first coat usually dries in 20 – 30 minutes. If I think I need a second coat I’ll wait until the first is completely tack free and spray on another one at 400 sq. ft. per gallon.

How often do you need to re-seal stamped concrete?

Most of the time, every 2 – 3 years. I depends on things like, foot traffic, sunlight, and weather conditions. 

Acrylic sealers just aren’t designed to last forever. The sun degrades them, foot traffic wears it off, and harsh weather conditions will eventually make it whiten or flake off.

Maintaining the stamped concrete by keeping it clean and re-sealing when needed (2 – 3) years, will keep the concrete looking as new as possible.

Can Xylene be used on stamped concrete?

TIP: To clear up whitened, cracked, and hazy looking concrete sealer, sometimes it’s better to try and re-melt the existing acrylic solvent based sealer with an application of xylene (xylol).

Xylene is a strong solvent that re-wets acrylic solvent based concrete sealers making them look new again.

Applying xylene by using a pump-up sprayer, roller, or brush rejuvenates the existing old sealer to its original appearance. By trying this method
first, you may get the original sealer to look smooth, shiney and clear without adding another coating of sealer.

What xylene won’t do is seal any areas where the old sealer has completely peeled, flaked, or worn off. You might try a xylene application first, wait a few hours for that to dry, then reseal everything with a very light coat of new sealer.

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR DULL STAMPED CONCRETE IS SEALED

If you view the concrete at an angle and the surface has some sheen, it probably has some sealer on it.

Another way to test for existing sealer is after the concrete has been completely cleaned, place a few drops of water on it.

If the concrete immediately darkens, the sealer is gone. If the water beads up, even for a few seconds, there’s still some sealer on or in the concrete.

WHY IS THIS IMPORTANT TO KNOW

If your stamped concrete is just dull looking with no white spots or flaking, then just a simple cleaning and re-seal should be enough to make it look like new again.

WHEN NOT TO RESEAL STAMPED CONCRETE

  • When the temperature is 80 degrees or hotter
  • In direct sunlight in the middle of the day
  • Early in the morning when there’s dew on the ground
  • When it rained the day before
  • When there’s a chance of rain the day of
  • When it might rain the day after.
  • When the temperature is below 55 degrees
  • When it’s windy outside
  • When the existing sealer just looks like it’s too thick (this is when you’ll have to strip it off and start over)

THE IDEAL TIME TO RESEAL CONCRETE

  • When the temperature is between 55 and 80 degrees
  • Late in the afternoon or early evening when the sun is going down
  • When you have multiple days of dry, sunny weather

I have less problems sealing concrete later in the day when the temperature of the concrete is going down versus sealing in the morning when the sun is warming the concrete up.

If you seal in the morning, the concrete could have some moisture in it just from the dampness in the overnight air.

Ever seen that moisture (dew) on your grass in the morning.

Then as the sun warms up the concrete, the moisture will escape the concrete as vapor. If you seal the surface, the vapor could cause blisters, bubbles, and blushing.

IN SUMMERY

It’s a good idea and good maintenance to re-seal your stamped concrete.

Watch my video above, I break down each step from cleaning to sealing your concrete.

If you have a question, you can watch the video on YouTube and ask a question in the comments section. I try to answer all questions asked on that platform.

Mike Day




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Source: https://www.everything-about-concrete.com/how-do-i-reseal-stamped-concrete.html

Concrete

Protecting Your Concrete Before Winter

With fall in full swing and the Louisiana heat finally starting to simmer down, it’s officially time to finish those yard enhancements that you’ve been putting off all summer. When preparing your yard for the freezes to come this winter, it’s important to include concrete in your checklist. All outdoor concrete surfaces need to be
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The post Protecting Your Concrete Before Winter appeared first on Port Aggregates.

Republished by Plato

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With fall in full swing and the Louisiana heat finally starting to simmer down, it’s officially time to finish those yard enhancements that you’ve been putting off all summer. When preparing your yard for the freezes to come this winter, it’s important to include concrete in your checklist.

All outdoor concrete surfaces need to be protected before winter hits. As temperatures begin to drop below freezing, repeated freeze/thaw cycles will cause your concrete to expand and contract, resulting in unsightly cracks when spring begins.

How to prevent winter cracks

One of the best (and most appealing) ways to protect your concrete this winter is with a decorative finish. 

A decorative concrete finish gives your surface an extra layer of protection and durability without replacing the entire slab. You can also customize its appearance with an endless array of colors and patterns. 

These finishes act as a concrete treatment and can protect against erosion from heavy rains, repeated freeze/thaw cycles, unsightly stains caused by decomposing leaves, and grout deterioration. 

If you’re satisfied with the appearance of your concrete and are looking for a cheaper option, concrete sealer is another great way to protect your existing slab during the winter. This will help protect your concrete without changing its appearance. 

Additional benefits of a decorative concrete overlay

Decorative concrete overlays can cover any imperfections, including discoloration and cracks, and transform your slab into a beautiful and protective slab. 

Whether you choose stamped concrete, stained concrete, or imitation stone to restore your outdoor area, you can rest assured that it will stay protected for years to come. Even in the rapidly changing Louisiana climate. 

With a decorative concrete overlay, you can create the appearance of flagstone, slate, hardwood, or cobblestone without spending an arm and a leg on real stone. Because the overlay is sealed, it will be resistant to chipping, peeling, staining, and weathering.

Don’t wait another day to protect your concrete from this year’s winter. With the Louisiana weather being as crazy as it has been in 2020, there’s no telling what this winter will bring. Start taking steps to protect your driveway now and contact Port Aggregates for assistance. We look forward to helping you keep your concrete safe this winter!

Source: https://www.portaggregates.com/protecting-concrete-in-winter/

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Concrete

Rebuilding the Future of Concrete Construction with Smart Technology

While local preference in building materials varies from region to region, high-rise construction in the Greater Toronto Area, especially in the residential subcategory, is exclusively done with concrete. Despite concrete having been available since the days of Ancient Rome, 20th- and 21st-century technological advancements have made it the medium of choice for an expanding range of uses.  In a region […]

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While local preference in building materials varies from region to region, high-rise construction in the Greater Toronto Area, especially in the residential subcategory, is exclusively done with concrete. Despite concrete having been available since the days of Ancient Rome, 20th- and 21st-century technological advancements have made it the medium of choice for an expanding range of uses. 

In a region like the GTA, with a variety of microclimates and underlying geological conditions, specialized types of concrete are being employed with increasing regularity. Customized formulations of concrete mixes now cater to foundations and caisson walls for sites with high water tables that need to be watertight, or road and water infrastructure that need particularly hardened varieties, and various other applications like industrial floors where standard concrete mixes aren’t necessarily up to the task.

One admixture manufacturer helping the construction industry create new varieties of concrete mixes is Kryton International Inc. For over four decades, Kryton has produced admixtures using Smart Concrete technology, which has allowed concrete producers and builders to give their concrete the necessary waterproofing and durability qualities. 

When Kryton first produced an admixture in the early 1980s, they developed a unique waterproofing admixture with a type of Smart Concrete technology known as Krystol® technology. With this feature, builders no longer needed to use waterproofing membranes. Instead, they could add Kryton’s admixture to their concrete mix, which would turn the concrete itself into a waterproof barrier. At any sign of water ingress then, the concrete would react, forming numerous needle-shaped crystals that fill up capillary pores and micro-cracks to prevent water from entering. 

Applications like this are especially important where construction of deep foundations spans a range of geological conditions. Our region’s glacial history and the resulting networks of ravines and waterways create challenging groundwater conditions for underground construction, while the need in dense areas and the desire in others to hide unsightly parking below ground are forcing builders to put their foundations deeper underground.

One such example is Terraces on the Park, a seven-storey building located in the Humber River valley in the Toronto suburb of Woodbridge. The site’s riverside location’s high water table and significant hydrostatic pressure means that waterproofing was critical for all underground concrete components. As a result, the foundation walls, slab-on-grade area, two levels of below grade parking, and the building’s exterior terraces were treated with Kryton’s Krystol Internal Membrane™ (KIM®) waterproofing admixture, while joints and tieholes were waterproofed with Kryton’s Krystol® Waterstop System. With Downtown Toronto situated on a former glacial lakebed and a proliferation of tall towers being built on reclaimed land on the waterfront, these waterproofing solutions have plenty of other potential applications in foundation construction around the city.

KIM technology was also incorporated into the concrete at the 2014-built Gibson Square Condominiums in North York City Centre, a project that may be more familiar to UrbanToronto readers. With construction already well underway at the time, Kryton’s products were used as a solution to waterproof a south foundation wall. With a constrained site footprint and no room for a trench to accommodate a traditional external waterproofing membrane, Kryton’s KIM admixture was added directly to the concrete mix for a faster, more cost-effective solution to the site-specific challenge. The benefits were immediately noted by the project team, who subsequently selected KIM for the waterproofing of the complex’s elevator pits.

A popular water feature in Toronto’s East Bayfront, Sherbourne Common, utilizes the same KIM waterproofing admixture for its lengthy concrete water channel, allowing the concrete to serve as an architectural finish without the need for additional water-sealing layers that could impact the aesthetic.

A more recent development in concrete admixtures produced by Kryton is being used in projects where increased abrasion resistance and durability are requirements. Projects like roads, hydro spillways, industrial flooring, agriculture, power generation, and marine structures are being built with the integral hardening admixture known as Hard-Cem®.

One local application of Hard-Cem was at the TTC’s new McNicoll Bus Garage, now late in its construction in Scarborough. The project’s construction team added Hard-Cem to the concrete used to form the building, increasing the hardness of the concrete paste and reducing wear loss and aggregate exposure due to abrasion. The result was a durable concrete structure capable of withstanding the constant surface abrasion and salt exposure associated with frequent bus movements.

This resistance to surface abrasion and salt exposure also makes this durable concrete a good candidate for warehouses and facilities that deal with harsh wear and tear throughout Ontario and the rest of Canada. There are plenty of examples of this, but a particularly significant one can be seen at Markham’s Earl Turcott Waste Management Facility. Considered to be the largest of its kind in Canada, this facility processes around 2,600 metric tons of waste and accommodates at least 350 vehicles. Despite the ongoing surface abrasion and erosive forces that result from this activity, the facility has stayed in working shape for over a decade with the help of Hard-Cem-treated concrete. 

Keeping in the spirit of Smart Concrete, Kryton’s latest big move came last year with the acquisition of a 30% interest in and North American distribution rights for a Denmark-based company producing advanced sensor technology known as Maturix®. This innovation attaches type K thermocouple cables to reinforcing steel, which will get immersed in concrete, and connects those cables to the sensors. That way, contractors only have to replace the cheap cables and can reuse these sensors for multiple projects. In return, the sensors monitor and log temperature data every 10 minutes and wirelessly transmit that data to Sigfox, a cloud-based platform. The platform then takes that data and time data to determine what strength the concrete currently has. Both temperature data and strength development data are then sent wirelessly to any connected device a contractor and their team chooses. All of which makes it easy to monitor concrete from anywhere at any time, giving the contractor, engineer, and any other team members the information they need to make critical decisions in a time-effective manner.

Overall, these updates to concrete construction will ensure that concrete remains the top material for thousands more years of civilization-shaping projects.

Excerpted From Urban Toronto

Source: https://www.kryton.com/in-the-news/2020/10/05/rebuilding-the-future-of-concrete-construction-with-smart-technology/

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Concrete

Oct 4, Diy Concrete Driveway Cost – The Real Cost Of Doing It Yourself!

A concrete driveway costs between $6 – $8 dollars per square foot for plain gray concrete and $10 – $20 dollars per square foot for decorative concrete.

Republished by Plato

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A concrete driveway costs from $6 to $8 dollars per square foot to install for plain gray concrete and from $10 to $20 dollars per square foot for a colored and stamped concrete driveway.

If you’re going to “do it yourself”, you will save some money on the labor costs. Labor costs of a concrete driveway usually range from 50% to 60% of the total costs of installation.





the average costs of a concrete driveway

The average concrete driveway costs between $2400.00 and $4800.00 to install based on a 400 square foot to 600 square foot driveway size. That’s based on a thickness of 4 inches with a 2 foot mat of rebar for reinforcement.

The gravel sub-base preparation could add  $1000.00 to $4000.00 to the total cost depending on how much gravel you need and if you have to demo and haul off an existing driveway.

Doing the work yourself you could save half of the costs above. Material costs for concrete and rebar for a 16′ x 25′ x 4″ concrete driveway will cost between $1000 and $1200 dollars.  

how much it costs to pour a 12′ x 40′ concrete driveway

Design and Gravel Prep
Forming and Reinforcement
Pouring the concrete
Finished concrete driveway

The costs breakdown for a 12′ by 40′ concrete driveway like the one we did above are below:

  1. Remove existing driveway and gravel prep – Labor 600.00 – Materials $600.00
  2. Forming & install reinforcement – Labor $750 – Materials $150
  3. Pouring & Finishing the concrete – Labor $1500 – Concrete $1100 (5″ thick)

Total cost of the concrete driveway: $4700.00

Deduct labor costs if you do it yourself: $4700 – $2850 = $1850.00 diy concrete driveway cost.

NOTE: These are my costs of labor and materials in my area, your actual costs for both of these may vary greatly depending on your situation.

basic tools for pouring a concrete driveway

Here’s a list of tools we use to pour and finish a basic plain gray broom finished concrete driveway:

Please note, these are affiliate links and I may make a small commission if you click through to Amazon and purchase these tools.

can i pour my own concrete driveway?

The basic steps for pouring a new concrete driveway are:

  1. Remove or demo the existing driveway (if needed)
  2. Design & Permits – Check with local building codes for permits & design specifications
  3. Excavation and gravel prep – install and compact gravel for the sub-base (the amount of gravel needed will vary depending on your conditions and climate.) 1 foot minimum gravel base.
  4. Install forms based on your design. Use 2×4’s or 2×6’s for straight forms and PVC boards for curves.
  5. Lay your reinforcement – Use 3/8″ or 1/2″ rebar and tie a mat 2 foot on center throughout the driveway then place bricks under it to hold it up in the middle of the concrete. Or use wire mesh.
  6. Calculate and order your concrete from the local ready mix concrete plant. (give them at least a weeks notice.)
  7. Pour the concrete level with the top of your forms, screed and bull float it smooth.
  8. Finishing the concrete – wait for the concrete to set up and use an edger to round the edges, mag float the surface, then drag a fine broom across the concrete to give it it’s final finish/texture.
  9. Saw contraction joints in the concrete the next day to help prevent cracking.
  10. Seal the concrete to protect it.

To learn how to work with concrete and the basic skills needed to install your own concrete driveway, check out  my concrete training academy The Concrete Underground.

other factors that add to the cost of installing a driveway

  • Your landscape – Is the area flat, slightly sloped, or steep. A steep sloped concrete driveway is more difficult to prep, pour, and finish which could add to the cost of installation.
  • The Driveway Size – A large driveway or a very long driveway would greatly add to the final cost. Concrete is a very expensive building material and adds about $150 per 65 sq. ft. of driveway.
  • How thick your concrete is – Driveway thickness contributes a large percentage  to the cost of a driveway. Concrete costs about $150 per yard – At 4″ thick that will cover 80 sq. ft. At 5″ thick that covers 65 sq. ft. At 6″ thick that covers 50 sq. ft.
  • Driveway design – Curved, circular, half moon shaped, or irregular angles may increase the material (and labor) costs. 
  • Adding color to the mix – Adding 1 bag of color per yard of concrete can add up to $80 per yard of concrete.
  • Stamping the concrete – Stamped concrete averages about $15 – $20 dollars per sq. ft. for labor and materials. 

how to build and pour a concrete driveway

The video below by Odell’s Complete Concrete will show you the basic steps it takes to build and install your own concrete driveway.

It shows you the demo and prep work, forming, pouring, and finishing process.


Conclusion: 

The diy concrete driveway costs above are figures I use when I give estimates for my customers in my area. 

These costs may change considerably depending on the cost of materials and labor in your area.

Please use these costs as a guide to help you consider whether or not you want to attempt to do your own concrete driveway or not.


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Source: https://www.everything-about-concrete.com/diy-concrete-driveway-cost.html

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