This page will show you some of the methods (and tricks) I use to remove oil stains from concrete.
All concrete is a little different. Some methods work better than others. Some methods have to be repeated multiple times.
It’s a process that takes a little patience, but most of the time the oil can be removed from the concrete.
My Top Method
Try this first if you’re not in a hurry
If you need to remove an oil stain from a concrete floor or driveway, I recommend using a process called bio-remediation.
There’s no harsh chemicals involved, no pressure washing, and no protective equipment needed.
Bio-remediates are hydrocarbon eating bacteria that eat the oil and leave behind water and carbon dioxide.
This powdered cleaner is simply swept over the oil stain and then you let it do the work.
Cleaning the oil stain from the concrete in the picture above took just one application.
This process takes a couple days or more to work.
The above picture of the cleaned concrete was taken 11 days after the cleaner was applied to the oil stain.
Terminator-HSD concrete cleaner is what we use to clean oil stains from concrete driveways, garage floors, gas station pads, and parking lots.
Of all the other products and methods I’ve tried, Terminator’s cleaner has worked the best.
It’s also safe to use, no harsh chemicals, detergents or acids to deal with. Very safe for the environment and animals.
Removing oil from concrete – How it works
Terminator-HSD is basically a powder you sweep on the oil stain and leave it. The hydrocarbon eating micro-organisms do all the work for you.
The cleaner contains billions of microbes that eat oil, converting it to carbon dioxide and water. The microbes are safe for people and animals – basically they aren’t interested in you or your pets.
Through this biological process, the stain fades away over time until it’s gone. The microbes do need water, just like we do, but usually they draw it from nature.
You can manually add water to speed up the process by using a spray bottle.
Depending on how deep the oil stain is in the concrete, it might take a couple days, a week, or a month to completely clean all the oil from the concrete.
The best part is, the bacteria keep eating the oil, you just apply it and walk away.
The types of stains Terminator will clean off concrete:
- Motor oil
- Hydraulic fluid
- Brake fluid
- Diesel fuel
- Radiator fluid
Is this the best method for cleaning oil stains from concrete?
In my opinion, It’s one of the best. I like that I can apply it and walk away, then come back a few days later to check the progress.
Some other reasons I like to use it:
- ECO-Friendly – won’t harm your skin or if you breath it
- Won’t kill your grass, shrubs, flowers, or trees
- It won’t harm your pets
- No messy clean-up
- It’s inexpensive to use
The manufacturer, Terminator-HSD, actually guarantees their cleaner will remove all the oil stain from the concrete or they will give you 100% of your money back.
Here’s Terminator’s video showing how it removes oil from concrete
Again, they give a 100% money back guarantee if you’re not satisfied. I recommend you give it a try, it’s cleaned oil from a lot of concrete driveways for me.
You buy this right from Amazon. Terminator-HSD
My 2nd Method – use a degreaser
If I’m in a little more of a hurry and want to try to remove the oil “NOW” (in minutes or maybe an hour), the first thing I try is very HOT water and an alkaline degreaser.
Hot water will loosen up the oil (if it’s dried on the concrete) and the degreaser will help emulsify it (break it up) and make it easier to rinse away, wipe, or vacuum up.
This method may take a few attempts to remove all the oil and it works best on oil stains that aren’t too deep or too old.
I like to use ZEP Concrete cleaner and degreaser for this. You can get it local or on Amazon.
Pour some hot water on the oil stain and let it sit for a few seconds.
After 30 – 60 seconds, apply some degreaser and let it sit for 10 minutes.
Try rinsing the oil stain and see if it looks cleaner or if it’s totally removed.
If you still see some oil, apply some more degreaser and repeat the process until the stain is removed.
My third method – make a poultice
A poultice will help remove stubborn motor oil stains from concrete.
You can make a poultice by either using granular cat litter, diamotaceous earth, or powdered laundry detergent and a liquid.
The liquid can be water, the degreaser we talked about above, or a solvent like acetone, xylene, lacquer thinner, or MEK.
Mix the dry material with the liquid (of your choice), into a paste and spread it over the oil stain.
Cover it with some plastic, a trash bag will do. You don’t want it to dry out too fast.
As the liquid in the poultice evaporates, it will draw the oil out of the concrete and into the poultice.
Once it’s completely dry, you can sweep it up and dispose of it.
It may take a few tries (try different combinations if you have to) but this method will draw out the oil to some degree and maybe all of it.
There is a product called Chomp Pull it Out Oil/Stain Remover For Concrete. It’s basically a pre-made poultice in a bottle.
You Squeeze some of this on your oil stained concrete, let it dry into a powder and remove.
It pulls the oil out of the concrete into the poultice and cleans the concrete.
You can buy it on Amazon and it saves you from having to make a poultice from scratch.
Cleaning up oil that’s a new leak, puddled, or spilled on concrete
If you just noticed a new leak under your car or truck and the oil is puddled, your best bet is to use an absorbent material like kitty litter or Oil-Dry.
If you don’t have an indoor cat then it’s a good idea to have a bag of OIL-DRY on hand just in case you notice some oil on your garage floor or your driveway.
As soon as you notice the oil, apply the Oil-Dry granules on the oil spill. The oil will start to immediately soak into the granules.
Slowly move them around the oil spill with a broom or brush until the granules are soaked with oil. Pick them up with a dust pan or sweep them aside for now.
Apply more Oil-Dry as needed to completely soak up all the spilled oil.
See the video below for a demonstration of this:
Some other methods (tricks) I’ve used to clean oil from concrete
You can try a spray can of Carburetor cleaner or Brake cleaner and an absorbent material like kitty litter or Oil-Dry for spot cleaning.
I’ve used this method for fast spot cleaning. I found a video of this exact process, this isn’t me in the video.
The guy in the video demonstrates it well though.
Check out the video below to see how this works.
A BOTTLE OF COKE:
I haven’t personally used this method but I have seen it work.
Coke has carbonated water, phosphoric acid, and citric acid as three of its ingredients. These three ingredients help loosen up stubborn oil stains.
Try pouring some Coke on your oil stain, lightly scrub it around and then wipe it up.
You should be able to tell soon enough if this method will work or not.
Here is a video with someone using this process:
LIQUID CONTACT CLEANER:
For small spots of dried up oil that you want to clean in a hurry, try a can of liquid contact cleaner.
Spray the spot while lightly scrubbing it in. Work fast, this stuff evaporates quickly. Then wipe up the oil.
This method looks like it works very well.
Watch how Flip removes the oil stains from his concrete driveway:
If you try any of these methods for removing oil stains from concrete, please do so with caution.
I’ve used some of these methods but not all of them. Proceed at your own risk.
I wanted to supply you with enough information so you can make an educated decision as to what might work best for your situation.
Trying to remove oil stains from concrete is sometimes very easy and sometimes not so easy.
That’s why I found multiple ways you can try, in case you have a difficult oil stain to remove.
Learn how I remove rust stains from concrete.
What I use to remove cat urine from concrete.
This is how I remove black glue from concrete.
The easiest way to remove carpet glue from concrete.
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Go from Remove oil from concrete to How to clean concrete
Why Does Concrete Crack?
One of the biggest hesitations people have when it comes to choosing concrete for their projects is that it cracks over time. While this practical, durable material is one of the strongest goods on the market, the forces of time and nature will eventually cause it to crack–especially if it’s been installed by a non-reputable
One of the biggest hesitations people have when it comes to choosing concrete for their projects is that it cracks over time.
While this practical, durable material is one of the strongest goods on the market, the forces of time and nature will eventually cause it to crack–especially if it’s been installed by a non-reputable company.
But why does concrete crack, and is there anything that will prevent this from happening?
These 5 mistakes are some of the most common causes of concrete cracks.
1. The concrete dried too fast
Faster is not always better. If your concrete mix doesn’t have enough water in it, it will dry too quickly and crack prematurely. Depending on the project, it should take at least a few weeks, maybe even a month, to dry completely.
2. Your contractor put too much water in the mix
Poorly mixed concrete can create a range of problems. Just like having too little water in the mix can cause it to crack, so can having too much water. Water must combine with the concrete at just the right pace so that it can cure and set properly.
3. Control joints weren’t used
Your concrete must be able to properly expand and contract in different temperatures, otherwise it’ll crack. Control joints are made specifically to help your concrete move about without breaking.
If your contractor doesn’t use these joints, there won’t be extra room for the slab to adjust its size with the changing temperatures, and it will end up cracking due to its internalized pressure.
4. It was too cold when your concrete was poured
Just like the amount of water affects concrete’s hydration process, so does cold weather. When the temperature drops too low, concrete won’t be able to cure correctly. In these situations, the pour will either need to be postponed, or the subsurface will need to be warmed before pouring.
5. Your concrete is too thin
Concrete that’s too thin is extremely susceptible to cracking. The proper thickness of your concrete will vary based on its purpose. For example, a driveway that’s meant to support vehicles needs to be thicker than a sidewalk that is not.
Improper concrete thickness is one of the top reasons why DIY concrete projects fail. When taking on a massive project like this on your own, it’s easy to miscalculate the weight your concrete will be expected to bear and the subsequent thickness necessary. Unfortunately, this will result in severe premature cracking.
At Port Aggregates, our contractors have 40 years’ worth of experience built into their pours. Our beautiful concrete has been trusted for decades with good reason. When you hire our professionals, you can say goodbye to premature cracking and rest assured that your slab has been installed properly. Contact us today to request a quote!
Jan 2, How To Form and Pour A Concrete Slab – The #1 Resource on The Web
Learn how to form and pour a concrete slab. My step by step guide will teach you everything you need to know from forming to pouring to finishing.
The tools and materials you need to form and pour a concrete slab
- Ready-mix concrete (yardage will depend on size of slab)
- Wire mesh or Rebar reinforcement
- Anchor bolts
If your concrete slab is smaller, you can use bags of concrete instead or ready-mix.
Find out how many bags of concrete it takes to make a yard. I did all the calculations for you.
On my Tools Page you can find all the tools required to form and pour concrete.
I also have a concrete yardage calculator that shows you how many yards you need and how many bags of concrete you’ll need.
step by step: how to pour a concrete pad
These are the basic steps I use form and pour concrete slabs.
I also have a step by step video course with multiple training videos that teaches you all you need to know about how to install your own concrete slab: My Concrete Slab Course
step 1. prepare the area for concrete
Under your concrete slab there should be a compacted base of gravel. You can also use road base, crushed rock, or sand, as long as it’s well compacted.
You’ll probably have to remove some of the existing soil like in the picture above. We removed about 12 inches of the existing sod & loam and replaced it with 8″ of 3/4″ crushed gravel.
This area had a slight slope, so we had to remove more soil on one side than the other to get a level pad.
After installing the gravel, we raked it level (using my laser level) and ran a vibratory compactor over it to settle it and pack it very hard.
NOTE: You may need a permit to install a slab. Contact your local building code officer to see what they require for building a slab. You may also have to keep it a certain distance away from your property line.
PRO TIP: If you have a lot of soil to remove, you can rent a skid steer to do it much easier or hire an excavation contractor to prep the area for you.
BE SAFE: Some states require you to call Dig Safe (811) to check for any underground wires or utilities before you start digging. It’s state law. It’s a free service so be safe.
step 2. building the forms for a concrete slab
Lay out your forms. It’s better to have forms that are a little longer than the size of your slab.
Set up your leveling device. I’m using a self-leveling laser. You can use a 4′ level or a transit level. All 3 will get the job done.
My slab size is 14′ x 10′.
Starting on one side, measure the length of your slab and mark it on the form. (my mark was at 14′ on this side)
Mark each side the same way. (my next side was 10′)
You’ll use these marks to screw the forms together in the next step.
step 3. screw the forms together and square the slab
Use your marks to screw the forms together.
Align the inside of the form with your pencil mark.
You can use a drill driver and deck screws like we do or you can use a hammer and nails to fasten the forms together.
I personally like to use screws, there’s less movement to the forms because you’re not banging on them with a hammer.
Screws are also easier to take out when you go to remove the forms.
After the forms are fastened together it’s time to square the slab.
I measure diagonally each way and slide the forms a little one way or the other until I get the exact same measurement for both diagonal measurements.
It usually takes a few times going back and forth checking until you get it exact.
When you have the slab square, you’re ready to stake it in place.
step 4. stake the forms and set them to grade
Use wooden stakes (or metal pins like me) to secure the forms in place.
I like to stake each corner, about 8 – 12 inches from the corner, on both sides.
After my 4 corners are staked, I hammer in a stake about every 4′ on all the sides.
To make sure the forms are straight, I use a string line on top of the forms to check them as I stake the forms in place.
After pounding in all the stakes, I use my laser level to set all the forms perfectly level.
The receiver on my grade stick has a solid sounding “beep” when the form is at the pre-determined height. (5″ above my dirt grade)
Screw the form to the stake when it’s at the level you want.
Repeat for all 4 corners, then do the rest of the stakes and your forms will be level.
step 5. add the reinforcement
It’s time to install the reinforcement, I’m using wire mesh for this slab. The best way to cut wire mesh is with a pair of bolt cutters.
I buy the flat sheets of mesh, they measure 5′ x 10′. Some local lumber companies stock the flat wire. If not, they usually have the rolls of mesh (5′ x 150′ get these at HD and Lowe’s also)
Another good reinforcement to use for concrete slabs is 3/8 (#3) rebar or 1/2″ (#4) rebar. Rebar comes in 10′ or 20′ lengths and you cut it to the length you need.
If you use rebar and have to cut it, you can rent a rebar cutter at HD or a local tool rental store. Or you can buy a good rebar cutter / bender on Amazon.
After the wire mesh goes in, you’re ready to pour the concrete. If you’re using ready-mix concrete, choose a nice, dry day and call your local concrete supplier to schedule the pour.
Most likely you’ll have to give them about a weeks notice so don’t wait till the last minute to call.
If you’re using bags of concrete, use my concrete yardage calculator to see how many bags you’ll need.
step 6. how to pour the concrete
When the concrete arrives, ask the mixer driver for for a 6 inch slump. Slump is how dry or wet the concrete is mixed. A 6 slump is a good workable mix to pour with.
Start pulling the concrete around and filling in the forms. Pull up the wire mesh or rebar into the concrete as you pour. (or you can put small pieces of brick under it to hold it up)
Pour out as much as you’re comfortable with (maybe about half on something like this if you’re a beginner) before you screed it level.
If you’re mixing bagged concrete for your slab, it’s the same process. Just slower.
Mix enough concrete until you have enough of the forms filled to screed the concrete.
I like to use ready mix myself. It’s just faster and more convenient for me since we do multiple pours like this in a day. Either way is good. Ready mix will be more expensive on a smaller slab vs bag mix.
See how many bags of concrete come on a pallet and what they cost.
Screed the concrete level using a magnesium screed board like us or a straight 2 x 4. Use short pulling strokes and tip the screed slightly on the back edge.
Put pressure down on the screed as you pull it to make sure it rides on top of the forms. Let your helpers push concrete (to fill low spots) and pull concrete back (if it’s high) as you screed.
The concrete rakes (kumalongs) we use make moving the concrete around a lot easier.
After you screed the concrete, use a bull float to smooth the surface.
A bull float pushes down the aggregate on the surface and brings up some cement paste (creme).
Tip up the front edge and slowly push it from one side to the other. When you reach the opposite side, stop, tip up the back edge and slowly pull it back to you.
It might take multiple passes in the same spot to get it nice and smooth (usually 1 – 3 times).
After you’ve done the entire slab this way, you’re almost done with the pour.
step 7. installing anchor bolts in concrete (optional)
If you’re using anchor bolts, now is the time to put them in the concrete. Measure out where you want them and make a mark in the concrete.
Push the anchor bolt into the concrete to the desired level you want. I usually leave about 2 inches sticking up out of the concrete.
PRO TIP: Once you push it into the concrete a few inches, slightly jiggle it up and down to consolidate the concrete around the bolt as you set it to your finished level.
Now you’re done pouring the concrete.
Learn how to pour and finish concrete in my private training academy The Concrete Underground.
watch and i’ll show you how to pour a concrete slab
If you’re thinking of doing a broom finish, smooth trowel finish, or a textured finish on the concrete, I can show you how to finish the concrete HERE.
Another very important step is to “cure” the concrete. Click on CONCRETE SEALER to learn about this.
You can remove the forms the next day.
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Jan 2, How To Mix Concrete – The Most In Depth Guide On The Internet
Learn how to mix concrete by hand using a wheelbarrow, concrete mixing machine, bucket or a tub. Detailed instructions and a video shows you how mix concrete.
diy how to mix concrete at home
I’ll teach you my method of how to mix concrete: to get the proper firmness, texture, and strength.
tools you need for mixing concrete
Warning: Always wear safety gloves, safety goggles, and a dust mask when working with concrete.
Materials used for mixing concrete
- Concrete bag mix
- Portland cement – sand – gravel – optional if you’re mixing concrete from scratch.
Video: shows you how mix concrete by hand using quikrete
Owner Mike Day of Day’s Concrete Floors shows you how to properly mix concrete to repair a broken section of pool deck.
step by step: how to mix concrete
step 1. set up your mixing area
If you’re mixing multiple bags of concrete it’s a lot easier and faster if you have your mixing area organized.
If you’re only mixing one or two bags (like in the video) then all you need is your bag(s) of concrete, wheelbarrow, water, hoe.
On bigger projects it’s important to get all your bags in order and have plenty of water on hand. Having 2 people mixing and one spreading and smoothing the concrete makes the work go a lot faster.
step 2. measure the proper amount of water
I like to pre-measure the amount of water needed per bag and add it to the wheelbarrow first.
I feel putting the water in first, then adding the dry concrete ingredients, makes the mixing process easier and faster.
The water table below shows you how much water to use per bag.
Depending on the bag size, there’s a range of water you can add for mixing.
For and 80 lb. bag of Quikrete, you can use 6 pints to 9 pints (3 – 4.5 quarts) of water to mix each bag.
I like to add the minimum amount to the wheelbarrow first, then add more water up to the maximum if I feel it needs it to get a good workable mixture.
If you use more water than the maximum amount recommended, then your concrete mix will not be as strong as advertised on the bag.
step 3. add the bag mix to your wheelbarrow (tub, bucket, or mixer)
Add about 1/2 to 2/3’s of the bag mix into the wheelbarrow. Mix that amount with the water until all the dry ingredients are saturated.
Add the rest of the bag and keep mixing. Use this same technique if you’re mixing in a bucket or a tub.
If you’re mixing in an electric concrete mixer machine, then you can add the whole bag at one time.
step 4. mix the concrete to a workable consistency
Add the remainder of the bag and continue to mix the concrete. Move the hoe back and forth completely mixing the dry concrete mix with the water.
Add more water (up to the maximum amount) until you get your desired consistency.
Your concrete mix should look similar to the concrete below when it’s mixed properly.
It took me about 3 minutes to measure and add the water, then mix the 1 bag of concrete to this texture.
Be careful not to get the mix too wet or it’s more likely to crack and won’t be as strong.
If you feel the concrete mix is too runny (wet) just add some more concrete mix from another bag until you feel it looks like the picture below.
PRO TIP: Always have an extra bag of concrete on hand just in case your project takes more concrete than you expected it to.
step 5. place the mixed concrete where you need it
A good thing about mixing concrete in a wheelbarrow is you can wheel the concrete right where you need it.
Dump the concrete out of the wheelbarrow or shovel it out, like I’m doing on this job.
One way you can tell if you mixed the concrete properly is if you can move the concrete in place using a mag float and float it smooth going back and forth over it a few times.
step 6. clean the concrete off your tools as soon as possible
Clean the wheelbarrow, hoe, and shovel with water as soon as you finish. The concrete mix will dry on them very quickly.
PRO TIP: If the concrete mixture dries on your tools, use a margin trowel to scrape it off first, then rinse and scrub with water.
If you have a water hose and a stiff bristle brush nearby, rinse off the bulk of the concrete first, scrub the remaining cement paste, and rinse clean.
Do this in an area you don’t have to clean up the washed off concrete afterwards. Never wash off concrete onto your driveway or garage floor, it could permanently stain it.
how to mix concrete in a bucket
18 gallon bucket in the picture. (best place to buy this is on Amazon)When I mix concrete in a bucket, I like to have an over-sized bucket like this
I also like to use a mixing drill to mix my bags of concrete. A mixing drill like this one makes the mixing process very fast and is really the only way to mix concrete using a bucket.
The mixing process is the same as above: Add your water first, add 1/2 bag and mix, add remainder of bag and mix, add water up to the max. amount if needed.
how to mix concrete in a mixer
If you’re using an electric concrete mixer machine it’ll speed up the mixing process because you can mix 2 – 3 bags of concrete at one time. (depending on the size of your mixer)
The Mixing Process Goes Like This:
- Pre-measure your water and add it to the mixer first.
- Turn on the mixer before you add the first bag of concrete
- Add the first bag and let it mix for a minute (2 minutes if you’re only mixing one bag)
- Add the second bag and continue to mix for 2 – 3 minutes
- If the mix looks too dry add a little water as it’s mixing (only add water up to the max. amount)
When the concrete looks mixed to the right consistency, dump it out of the mixer and into a wheelbarrow.
You can buy a really good portable electric concrete mixer machine on Amazon for $200 to $300 dollars.
what is the ratio for mixing concrete?
How do you mix your own concrete?
If you’re using Portland cement, sand, and gravel to make your own concrete, you can use the 1-2-3 mixing ratio.
This concrete mixing ratio is done by mixing 1 shovel of cement with 2 shovels of sand and 3 shovels of gravel. (or some other accurate way to measure your ingredients)
Add the dry ingredients into a wheelbarrow or the electric mixer before you start adding water.
When you add more dry material to the mix, keep the 1:2:3 ratio of cement to sand to gravel the same for consistency and strength.
The amount of water you add to the mix will be based on how the mix feels while you’re mixing it. Use the wheelbarrow method above to judge how the final mix should look.
For more examples of proper concrete mix proportions check out my concrete mixing ratios for mixing concrete from cement, sand, gravel, and water.
Learn how many bags of concrete it takes to make a cubic yard.
what’s the best type of concrete mix to use for:
1. Best concrete mix for a driveway is:
2. Best concrete mix for concrete countertops
3. Best concrete mix for fence posts
4. Best concrete mix for a patio
5. Best concrete mix for sidewalks
6. Best concrete mix for footings
7. Best concrete mix for slabs
Quikrete 5000 or Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete 5000 (add 2 cups cement)
Quikrete Regular or Fast Setting Mix
Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete Regular Mix
Quikrete 5000, Crack Resistant, or Regular
This list is my opinion only based off my experience using Quikrete Concrete mixes for my jobs.
Sometimes I’ll mix 1/2 a bag of Quikrete 5000 with one of the other bag mixes because it has a higher ratio of cement in it. This makes the overall mixture a little easier to finish.
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