From Hand Troweling to Broom finishes to Stamping to Power troweling
If you want to learn how to finish concrete, this page will cover many different types of concrete finishing.
Finishing concrete, whether your hand troweling or power troweling the concrete smooth or giving the concrete some texture with a broom or stamping it all require some type of experience or knowledge.
That’s what I’m going to provide you with. I’ve been a concrete finisher for nearly 40 years and have extensive experience in all types of concrete finishing.
How to finish concrete smooth with a hand trowel.
If you have a small concrete slab or floor and you want to achieve a smooth finish, using a steel trowel is going to be your best bet.
A hand trowel will give you a very smooth finish to the concrete if you know the proper procedure on how and when to start using it.
The basic steps for finishing concrete are:
- After pouring the concrete let the concrete firm up enough so you can only press your fingers into the surface about 1/4 of an inch.
- On your first finishing pass, use a mag float to smooth the surface. With moderate pressure, move the mag float in a back and forth motion. This motion will change the texture of the surface, working up some creme and cement paste.
- Once you’ve gone over the entire surface, let it dry a little before using your hand trowel.
- Start troweling using the same back and forth motion as you did with the mag float. Slightly tip the edge of the trowel up a bit in the direction you’re moving it. Go over the same area 2 – 3 times and it will start to look smoother.
- Don’t worry if you’re leaving a few small lines from the trowel, you will remove them on the next pass.
- After troweling the entire surface, let the concrete dry a bit more.
- Trowel the surface again the same as the first time you troweled it. The surface should be drier and harder now. Smooth out your trowel marks from the previous pass, the surface should be looking smoother now.
- Continue this process as many times as necessary to get the desired smooth finish you want.
Some other tools you may need are:
See my video below where I’ll show you and teach you how to do this.
How to finish concrete smooth with a power trowel.
If you have a large concrete floor or slab, the best way to get a smooth finish is to use a power trowel.
As a concrete finisher, I can tell you, learning how to use a power trowel will take some practice.
I’ll have a video below that’ll show you the basics, but be prepared, it’s not as easy as it looks.
If you’re renting one, make sure the rental company shows you how to start, hold on to, and move the machine right and left. This is very important for your own safety.
The most important part of getting your concrete floor smooth using a power trowel is knowing when to start.
If you start troweling too early, you could potentially create humps, dips, or a wavy surface that you won’t be happy with.
If you start too late, it’ll be hard to get the concrete as smooth as you like.
There’s a couple ways I test the concrete to see if it’s ready to start power troweling.
- Using my hand, I press my fingers into the concrete. If I can only press into the concrete about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, this tells me the concrete is close to or ready to start power troweling.
- If I can only press my fingers into the surface 1/8 inch, I try walking on the surface. If I only sink into the surface 1/16 to 1/8 inch with my feet, the concrete is ready to power trowel.
IMPORTANT: If you start power troweling and you start “sinking” in more than this or the power trowel starts digging into the surface and creating waves or humps, just stop and wait a little longer then try again.
If the concrete seems ok, then run the trowel in an east to west motion across the surface, covering the entire floor. Start furthest away from where you want to stop and work your way backwards.
When you’ve troweled the entire surface you may have to stop and let the concrete “dry out” a while before going over it again.
The time it takes it to “dry out” will be greatly dictated by the outside temperature and if it’s in the direct sun. (And how fast you are)
It will (should) take multiple passes with the power trowel to get a very smooth finish. Maybe 3, 4, or 5 depending on how fast the concrete is curing.
Cross your pattern each time you power trowel the surface. If you started with an east/west pattern, go north/south next time and so on.
The video below will show you how we do it and help you understand the basics. This will be your best place to start learning how to operate a power trowel.
Here’s another good power troweling video
How to Broom Finish Your Concrete
If you want a non-slip surface on your concrete, then a broom finish is what you’re looking for.
In my opinion, learning how to do a broom finish is a little easier than doing a smooth steel trowel finish.
If you’re broom finishing a concrete patio, pool deck, sidewalk, or a driveway, the basics are the same.
Knowing when to start is the key to success in my book. Much like above, you start the finishing process when:
- Start to mag float the surface when you can only press your fingers into the surface about 1/4 of an inch.
- After you mag float the surface, drag the concrete broom across the surface in a backwards motion pulling it towards you.
- Continue this process working your way from one end to the other until you’ve broomed the entire surface.
- If you can’t reach the entire area from the outside edges, you will need a set of concrete skids like we use to get onto the concrete.
Check out my video below for a visual guide on how to do the perfect broom finish on a concrete patio.
How to do a Stamped Concrete Finish
A stamped concrete finish is by far one of the most advanced types of concrete finishing.
I’ve been stamping concrete for over 30 years and the best advice I can give you if you’re set on trying this yourself is start with something small. (and watch all my stamping videos on YouTube.)
I even have a course that will teach you “How to stamp concrete.”
I would highly recommend taking my course, it’s well worth the investment and teaches you all the basics you need to know.
When I first started stamping concrete the most difficult part of the process for me was knowing when to start.
Setting that first stamping mat, then the second, third, and so on, really takes some getting used to.
Starting the stamping process is different than the above finishing methods. You have to start stamping a little earlier than if you’re doing a broom finish or a trowel finish.
Here’s the basic process: (after you’ve got the concrete poured)
- Check the concrete by pressing your fingers into the surface, you should be able to press in no more than 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch.
- If you can only press you fingers into the surface 3/8 to 1/2 inch, then that tells you it’s ready to start mag floating or funny floating the surface.
- Once you have the surface mag floated, start broadcasting your powder release agent onto the surface. Completely cover the surface with this powder.
- Determine where you’re going to start stamping and set your first stamping mat.
- Step on the first mat and if it supports your weight without you feeling you’re sinking into the concrete, you’re good to go. (you shouldn’t be sinking in any more than about 1/4 inch)
- Set your second, third, and forth stamps (more if you have them).
- After you’ve set all you stamps on the surface, start tamping them lightly into the surface with your tamper.
- After you’ve tamped your first stamp, slowly lift it straight up and look to see if you’ve got a good stamp impression in the surface of the concrete. (if not, set it back down and re-tamp it).
- If you have a good impression, move that stamp to the next place in line. (next to the last stamp you placed)
- Keep doing this process until you’ve stamped the entire surface. Moving one stamp at a time, picking it up and re-setting it in a new area.
You can buy concrete stamps here. Use coupon code EAC to save 10% when you checkout.
NOTE: Most concrete stamps have a particular way they connect together. If you’re unsure how they connect together, try connecting them on the ground before you start stamping.
Watch my video below for a visual presentation on how stamping concrete finishes is done.
If you want to learn more about stamping concrete watch the video below.
This video is made for beginners who want to learn how to stamp concrete.
There’s very little training out there for learning stamped concrete. This video helps solve that problem.
I introduce you to some training you can get from me. I’ll coach you, teach you, help train you, so you can stamp your own concrete or start your own stamped concrete business.
Another great resource for learning to stamp concrete is a page I wrote detailing all the steps it takes on how to stamp concrete.
Another way to learn how to finish concrete!
I made a very easy to follow but very in depth concrete slab course that teaches you how to install, pour, and finish a concrete slab.
In the course I have some videos where I teach you how to finish the concrete.
This course is another great tool for you to start to learn how to finish concrete.
If you want to learn how to finish concrete. I’ll help you learn the basics by providing you with information and videos that explain and show you how I finish my concrete jobs.
If you want to take you’re concrete finishing skills to the next level, then my courses will help you do that. (Plus my courses allow you direct access to me for questions and answers).
You can also check out my YouTube channel for a lot more information on concrete finishing.
Learn more about how to finish concrete smooth using a hand trowel.
If you liked this, please share. Thanks!
Why Does Concrete Crack?
One of the biggest hesitations people have when it comes to choosing concrete for their projects is that it cracks over time. While this practical, durable material is one of the strongest goods on the market, the forces of time and nature will eventually cause it to crack–especially if it’s been installed by a non-reputable
One of the biggest hesitations people have when it comes to choosing concrete for their projects is that it cracks over time.
While this practical, durable material is one of the strongest goods on the market, the forces of time and nature will eventually cause it to crack–especially if it’s been installed by a non-reputable company.
But why does concrete crack, and is there anything that will prevent this from happening?
These 5 mistakes are some of the most common causes of concrete cracks.
1. The concrete dried too fast
Faster is not always better. If your concrete mix doesn’t have enough water in it, it will dry too quickly and crack prematurely. Depending on the project, it should take at least a few weeks, maybe even a month, to dry completely.
2. Your contractor put too much water in the mix
Poorly mixed concrete can create a range of problems. Just like having too little water in the mix can cause it to crack, so can having too much water. Water must combine with the concrete at just the right pace so that it can cure and set properly.
3. Control joints weren’t used
Your concrete must be able to properly expand and contract in different temperatures, otherwise it’ll crack. Control joints are made specifically to help your concrete move about without breaking.
If your contractor doesn’t use these joints, there won’t be extra room for the slab to adjust its size with the changing temperatures, and it will end up cracking due to its internalized pressure.
4. It was too cold when your concrete was poured
Just like the amount of water affects concrete’s hydration process, so does cold weather. When the temperature drops too low, concrete won’t be able to cure correctly. In these situations, the pour will either need to be postponed, or the subsurface will need to be warmed before pouring.
5. Your concrete is too thin
Concrete that’s too thin is extremely susceptible to cracking. The proper thickness of your concrete will vary based on its purpose. For example, a driveway that’s meant to support vehicles needs to be thicker than a sidewalk that is not.
Improper concrete thickness is one of the top reasons why DIY concrete projects fail. When taking on a massive project like this on your own, it’s easy to miscalculate the weight your concrete will be expected to bear and the subsequent thickness necessary. Unfortunately, this will result in severe premature cracking.
At Port Aggregates, our contractors have 40 years’ worth of experience built into their pours. Our beautiful concrete has been trusted for decades with good reason. When you hire our professionals, you can say goodbye to premature cracking and rest assured that your slab has been installed properly. Contact us today to request a quote!
Jan 2, How To Form and Pour A Concrete Slab – The #1 Resource on The Web
Learn how to form and pour a concrete slab. My step by step guide will teach you everything you need to know from forming to pouring to finishing.
The tools and materials you need to form and pour a concrete slab
- Ready-mix concrete (yardage will depend on size of slab)
- Wire mesh or Rebar reinforcement
- Anchor bolts
If your concrete slab is smaller, you can use bags of concrete instead or ready-mix.
Find out how many bags of concrete it takes to make a yard. I did all the calculations for you.
On my Tools Page you can find all the tools required to form and pour concrete.
I also have a concrete yardage calculator that shows you how many yards you need and how many bags of concrete you’ll need.
step by step: how to pour a concrete pad
These are the basic steps I use form and pour concrete slabs.
I also have a step by step video course with multiple training videos that teaches you all you need to know about how to install your own concrete slab: My Concrete Slab Course
step 1. prepare the area for concrete
Under your concrete slab there should be a compacted base of gravel. You can also use road base, crushed rock, or sand, as long as it’s well compacted.
You’ll probably have to remove some of the existing soil like in the picture above. We removed about 12 inches of the existing sod & loam and replaced it with 8″ of 3/4″ crushed gravel.
This area had a slight slope, so we had to remove more soil on one side than the other to get a level pad.
After installing the gravel, we raked it level (using my laser level) and ran a vibratory compactor over it to settle it and pack it very hard.
NOTE: You may need a permit to install a slab. Contact your local building code officer to see what they require for building a slab. You may also have to keep it a certain distance away from your property line.
PRO TIP: If you have a lot of soil to remove, you can rent a skid steer to do it much easier or hire an excavation contractor to prep the area for you.
BE SAFE: Some states require you to call Dig Safe (811) to check for any underground wires or utilities before you start digging. It’s state law. It’s a free service so be safe.
step 2. building the forms for a concrete slab
Lay out your forms. It’s better to have forms that are a little longer than the size of your slab.
Set up your leveling device. I’m using a self-leveling laser. You can use a 4′ level or a transit level. All 3 will get the job done.
My slab size is 14′ x 10′.
Starting on one side, measure the length of your slab and mark it on the form. (my mark was at 14′ on this side)
Mark each side the same way. (my next side was 10′)
You’ll use these marks to screw the forms together in the next step.
step 3. screw the forms together and square the slab
Use your marks to screw the forms together.
Align the inside of the form with your pencil mark.
You can use a drill driver and deck screws like we do or you can use a hammer and nails to fasten the forms together.
I personally like to use screws, there’s less movement to the forms because you’re not banging on them with a hammer.
Screws are also easier to take out when you go to remove the forms.
After the forms are fastened together it’s time to square the slab.
I measure diagonally each way and slide the forms a little one way or the other until I get the exact same measurement for both diagonal measurements.
It usually takes a few times going back and forth checking until you get it exact.
When you have the slab square, you’re ready to stake it in place.
step 4. stake the forms and set them to grade
Use wooden stakes (or metal pins like me) to secure the forms in place.
I like to stake each corner, about 8 – 12 inches from the corner, on both sides.
After my 4 corners are staked, I hammer in a stake about every 4′ on all the sides.
To make sure the forms are straight, I use a string line on top of the forms to check them as I stake the forms in place.
After pounding in all the stakes, I use my laser level to set all the forms perfectly level.
The receiver on my grade stick has a solid sounding “beep” when the form is at the pre-determined height. (5″ above my dirt grade)
Screw the form to the stake when it’s at the level you want.
Repeat for all 4 corners, then do the rest of the stakes and your forms will be level.
step 5. add the reinforcement
It’s time to install the reinforcement, I’m using wire mesh for this slab. The best way to cut wire mesh is with a pair of bolt cutters.
I buy the flat sheets of mesh, they measure 5′ x 10′. Some local lumber companies stock the flat wire. If not, they usually have the rolls of mesh (5′ x 150′ get these at HD and Lowe’s also)
Another good reinforcement to use for concrete slabs is 3/8 (#3) rebar or 1/2″ (#4) rebar. Rebar comes in 10′ or 20′ lengths and you cut it to the length you need.
If you use rebar and have to cut it, you can rent a rebar cutter at HD or a local tool rental store. Or you can buy a good rebar cutter / bender on Amazon.
After the wire mesh goes in, you’re ready to pour the concrete. If you’re using ready-mix concrete, choose a nice, dry day and call your local concrete supplier to schedule the pour.
Most likely you’ll have to give them about a weeks notice so don’t wait till the last minute to call.
If you’re using bags of concrete, use my concrete yardage calculator to see how many bags you’ll need.
step 6. how to pour the concrete
When the concrete arrives, ask the mixer driver for for a 6 inch slump. Slump is how dry or wet the concrete is mixed. A 6 slump is a good workable mix to pour with.
Start pulling the concrete around and filling in the forms. Pull up the wire mesh or rebar into the concrete as you pour. (or you can put small pieces of brick under it to hold it up)
Pour out as much as you’re comfortable with (maybe about half on something like this if you’re a beginner) before you screed it level.
If you’re mixing bagged concrete for your slab, it’s the same process. Just slower.
Mix enough concrete until you have enough of the forms filled to screed the concrete.
I like to use ready mix myself. It’s just faster and more convenient for me since we do multiple pours like this in a day. Either way is good. Ready mix will be more expensive on a smaller slab vs bag mix.
See how many bags of concrete come on a pallet and what they cost.
Screed the concrete level using a magnesium screed board like us or a straight 2 x 4. Use short pulling strokes and tip the screed slightly on the back edge.
Put pressure down on the screed as you pull it to make sure it rides on top of the forms. Let your helpers push concrete (to fill low spots) and pull concrete back (if it’s high) as you screed.
The concrete rakes (kumalongs) we use make moving the concrete around a lot easier.
After you screed the concrete, use a bull float to smooth the surface.
A bull float pushes down the aggregate on the surface and brings up some cement paste (creme).
Tip up the front edge and slowly push it from one side to the other. When you reach the opposite side, stop, tip up the back edge and slowly pull it back to you.
It might take multiple passes in the same spot to get it nice and smooth (usually 1 – 3 times).
After you’ve done the entire slab this way, you’re almost done with the pour.
step 7. installing anchor bolts in concrete (optional)
If you’re using anchor bolts, now is the time to put them in the concrete. Measure out where you want them and make a mark in the concrete.
Push the anchor bolt into the concrete to the desired level you want. I usually leave about 2 inches sticking up out of the concrete.
PRO TIP: Once you push it into the concrete a few inches, slightly jiggle it up and down to consolidate the concrete around the bolt as you set it to your finished level.
Now you’re done pouring the concrete.
Learn how to pour and finish concrete in my private training academy The Concrete Underground.
watch and i’ll show you how to pour a concrete slab
If you’re thinking of doing a broom finish, smooth trowel finish, or a textured finish on the concrete, I can show you how to finish the concrete HERE.
Another very important step is to “cure” the concrete. Click on CONCRETE SEALER to learn about this.
You can remove the forms the next day.
If you liked this, please share. Thanks!
Jan 2, How To Mix Concrete – The Most In Depth Guide On The Internet
Learn how to mix concrete by hand using a wheelbarrow, concrete mixing machine, bucket or a tub. Detailed instructions and a video shows you how mix concrete.
diy how to mix concrete at home
I’ll teach you my method of how to mix concrete: to get the proper firmness, texture, and strength.
tools you need for mixing concrete
Warning: Always wear safety gloves, safety goggles, and a dust mask when working with concrete.
Materials used for mixing concrete
- Concrete bag mix
- Portland cement – sand – gravel – optional if you’re mixing concrete from scratch.
Video: shows you how mix concrete by hand using quikrete
Owner Mike Day of Day’s Concrete Floors shows you how to properly mix concrete to repair a broken section of pool deck.
step by step: how to mix concrete
step 1. set up your mixing area
If you’re mixing multiple bags of concrete it’s a lot easier and faster if you have your mixing area organized.
If you’re only mixing one or two bags (like in the video) then all you need is your bag(s) of concrete, wheelbarrow, water, hoe.
On bigger projects it’s important to get all your bags in order and have plenty of water on hand. Having 2 people mixing and one spreading and smoothing the concrete makes the work go a lot faster.
step 2. measure the proper amount of water
I like to pre-measure the amount of water needed per bag and add it to the wheelbarrow first.
I feel putting the water in first, then adding the dry concrete ingredients, makes the mixing process easier and faster.
The water table below shows you how much water to use per bag.
Depending on the bag size, there’s a range of water you can add for mixing.
For and 80 lb. bag of Quikrete, you can use 6 pints to 9 pints (3 – 4.5 quarts) of water to mix each bag.
I like to add the minimum amount to the wheelbarrow first, then add more water up to the maximum if I feel it needs it to get a good workable mixture.
If you use more water than the maximum amount recommended, then your concrete mix will not be as strong as advertised on the bag.
step 3. add the bag mix to your wheelbarrow (tub, bucket, or mixer)
Add about 1/2 to 2/3’s of the bag mix into the wheelbarrow. Mix that amount with the water until all the dry ingredients are saturated.
Add the rest of the bag and keep mixing. Use this same technique if you’re mixing in a bucket or a tub.
If you’re mixing in an electric concrete mixer machine, then you can add the whole bag at one time.
step 4. mix the concrete to a workable consistency
Add the remainder of the bag and continue to mix the concrete. Move the hoe back and forth completely mixing the dry concrete mix with the water.
Add more water (up to the maximum amount) until you get your desired consistency.
Your concrete mix should look similar to the concrete below when it’s mixed properly.
It took me about 3 minutes to measure and add the water, then mix the 1 bag of concrete to this texture.
Be careful not to get the mix too wet or it’s more likely to crack and won’t be as strong.
If you feel the concrete mix is too runny (wet) just add some more concrete mix from another bag until you feel it looks like the picture below.
PRO TIP: Always have an extra bag of concrete on hand just in case your project takes more concrete than you expected it to.
step 5. place the mixed concrete where you need it
A good thing about mixing concrete in a wheelbarrow is you can wheel the concrete right where you need it.
Dump the concrete out of the wheelbarrow or shovel it out, like I’m doing on this job.
One way you can tell if you mixed the concrete properly is if you can move the concrete in place using a mag float and float it smooth going back and forth over it a few times.
step 6. clean the concrete off your tools as soon as possible
Clean the wheelbarrow, hoe, and shovel with water as soon as you finish. The concrete mix will dry on them very quickly.
PRO TIP: If the concrete mixture dries on your tools, use a margin trowel to scrape it off first, then rinse and scrub with water.
If you have a water hose and a stiff bristle brush nearby, rinse off the bulk of the concrete first, scrub the remaining cement paste, and rinse clean.
Do this in an area you don’t have to clean up the washed off concrete afterwards. Never wash off concrete onto your driveway or garage floor, it could permanently stain it.
how to mix concrete in a bucket
18 gallon bucket in the picture. (best place to buy this is on Amazon)When I mix concrete in a bucket, I like to have an over-sized bucket like this
I also like to use a mixing drill to mix my bags of concrete. A mixing drill like this one makes the mixing process very fast and is really the only way to mix concrete using a bucket.
The mixing process is the same as above: Add your water first, add 1/2 bag and mix, add remainder of bag and mix, add water up to the max. amount if needed.
how to mix concrete in a mixer
If you’re using an electric concrete mixer machine it’ll speed up the mixing process because you can mix 2 – 3 bags of concrete at one time. (depending on the size of your mixer)
The Mixing Process Goes Like This:
- Pre-measure your water and add it to the mixer first.
- Turn on the mixer before you add the first bag of concrete
- Add the first bag and let it mix for a minute (2 minutes if you’re only mixing one bag)
- Add the second bag and continue to mix for 2 – 3 minutes
- If the mix looks too dry add a little water as it’s mixing (only add water up to the max. amount)
When the concrete looks mixed to the right consistency, dump it out of the mixer and into a wheelbarrow.
You can buy a really good portable electric concrete mixer machine on Amazon for $200 to $300 dollars.
what is the ratio for mixing concrete?
How do you mix your own concrete?
If you’re using Portland cement, sand, and gravel to make your own concrete, you can use the 1-2-3 mixing ratio.
This concrete mixing ratio is done by mixing 1 shovel of cement with 2 shovels of sand and 3 shovels of gravel. (or some other accurate way to measure your ingredients)
Add the dry ingredients into a wheelbarrow or the electric mixer before you start adding water.
When you add more dry material to the mix, keep the 1:2:3 ratio of cement to sand to gravel the same for consistency and strength.
The amount of water you add to the mix will be based on how the mix feels while you’re mixing it. Use the wheelbarrow method above to judge how the final mix should look.
For more examples of proper concrete mix proportions check out my concrete mixing ratios for mixing concrete from cement, sand, gravel, and water.
Learn how many bags of concrete it takes to make a cubic yard.
what’s the best type of concrete mix to use for:
1. Best concrete mix for a driveway is:
2. Best concrete mix for concrete countertops
3. Best concrete mix for fence posts
4. Best concrete mix for a patio
5. Best concrete mix for sidewalks
6. Best concrete mix for footings
7. Best concrete mix for slabs
Quikrete 5000 or Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete 5000 (add 2 cups cement)
Quikrete Regular or Fast Setting Mix
Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete Crack Resistant Mix
Quikrete Regular Mix
Quikrete 5000, Crack Resistant, or Regular
This list is my opinion only based off my experience using Quikrete Concrete mixes for my jobs.
Sometimes I’ll mix 1/2 a bag of Quikrete 5000 with one of the other bag mixes because it has a higher ratio of cement in it. This makes the overall mixture a little easier to finish.
If you liked this, please share. Thanks!
What are Some Major Factors to Keep in Mind When Buying CBD Vape Oil?
MagicMed: Bringing the Drug Candidate Library Model to Psychedelics
Investors in This Cannabis Stock Are Leaving $800 Million on the Table
What is Delta-8 THC? Everything You Need to Know
What’s New With Cannabis Stocks for the Week Ending 01/15/21
Optical Coherence Tomography Findings in Cannabis Users
CBD News: NIHC chairman appointed to board advising U.S. on trade policy
Alcanna to Spin Out Cannabis Business and Pursue Value Segment Strategy
Fire & Flower Expands Free Same-Day Delivery Across Its Ontario Network
Blog – Global Cannabinoids | CBD Wholesale & Bulk | White Label | Private Label
Hemp & CBD Blog | Northeast Kingdom Hemp
Informational blogs about CBD and Hemp
CBD Blog: News, Info & Tips
Clinical and biochemical heterogeneity of Parkinson’s disease
Illinois Collects $62 Million in Cannabis Revenue to Support Neighborhoods
Nordic Oil FAQ: The CBD questions you’ve always wanted answers to
A Beginners Guide to Pests
BC Craft Supply Co Announces Letter of Intent with Psilocybin Research and Development Company Ava Pathways
CBD News: Circle K wants to block hemp trademark that resembles its own
10xPURE-GOLD CBDa Muscle & Joint Relief Cream
Straight Hemp CBD Blog
Premium Jane Blog | Latest News on CBD, Industrial Hemp, and More
Easy Day Hemp Blog
CBD Blogs | Ergo Hemp Co.
How Red White & Bloom Established A Base In Michigan’s Cannabis Scene—And Keeps Expanding
Heavy metals in cbd
CBD News: Restrictions on shipment of vaping products could impact hemp industry
Does CBD Affect Men and Women Differently?
Best CBD Product For Anxiety?
News1 week ago
Pure Harvest Bolsters Corporate Team with Key Additions
Heartland7 days ago
MindMed Adds Chief Development Officer with FDA Phase 2 Psilocybin Clinical Trial Experience
Heartland1 week ago
Novamind Appoints Chuck Rifici to its Board of Directors
Heartland1 week ago
Mydecine Innovations Group Appoints Gordon Neal to Board of Directors and Dean Ditto as Chief Financial Officer
Uncategorized1 week ago
Sundial Announces the Launch of Premium Concentrates Products Under its Top Leaf Brand
Heartland1 week ago
Can You Treat COVID-19 With CBD and Reduce Mortality Rates? A New Israeli Research Believes You Can!
Uncategorized6 days ago
MediPharm Labs Appoints Warren Everitt, CEO Australia Pacific, to Board of Directors
Heartland1 week ago
Cannabis Heroes of History: How Robert Randall Beat the U.S.