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Apr 11, How To Paint Your Garage Floor With A 2-Part Epoxy (Learn From A Pro)

Learn my best strategies and techniques to paint your own garage floor using a 2-part epoxy floor paint. I’ll show you how to do it and the best epoxy to use.

Republished by Plato



If you’re thinking of painting your garage floor with a 2-part epoxy floor paint, I’m going to teach you how to do it.

My company, Day’s Concrete Floors, Inc. installs a lot of epoxy floor coatings throughout the year.

If you have enough knowledge and are willing to do the work, painting an epoxy coating onto your garage floor is something you can do yourself. You just have to know the correct way to do it.

If you’d like a more detailed, step by step process that will ensure you successfully complete the project, check out my Epoxy Floor Coating Course.

Below are the before and after pictures of a garage floor I installed a gray epoxy coating to.

The garage floor was in pretty rough shape, but with the right prep and a good epoxy floor kit, the floor came out looking very nice.

Paint your concrete floor with garage floor epoxyBEFORE PIC
Paint your concrete floor with a garage floor epoxyAFTER PIC

The Basic Steps:

These are the basic steps you’ll need to do to paint your garage floor with epoxy and make it last:


I made a complete video course that teaches you all you need to know.

I show you all my tips and best practices for installing a garage floor epoxy coating in this course.

After taking this course, you’ll know everything you need to know about how to successfully paint your garage floor with a 2-part epoxy coating.


Step 1: Prep your concrete floor

The best way to prep the concrete floor for your epoxy coating is to lightly grind the concrete.

Lightly grinding the concrete will help clean and profile the concrete all at once. It’ll also remove any concrete sealers that may have been previously applied.

It’s really not to hard to do. A dewalt grinder with a vacuum shroud and a good vacuum with a dust buddy will make it a dust free process.

PRO TIP: The correct “profile” on the concrete floor for best adhesion is like the feel of 60 grit sandpaper. You will not achieve this profile by acid etching the concrete. Grinding the concrete is the best way for you to do this.

Any garage floor epoxy kits that say just “acid etch” you concrete to prep it, put back on the shelf. I don’t recommend these unless you grind the concrete.


  1. Dewalt grinder with vacuum shroud
  2. Shop Vac
  3. Dust Deputy
  4. Diamond grinding disc
  5. Dust mask
  6. Safety glasses

Note: Some or all of these links on this page are affiliate links, which means if you click on them and purchase a product within 24 hours, I will make a small commission. Thank you for your support of this site!!

Step 2: Fix any cracks and spalling

The next step is to fix any floor cracks, chips, divots, or spalling.

If you don’t have any of these issues, great! move to the next step.

If you have some cracks to fix, I use a couple crack repair products to do this with.

Make sure you vacuum the floor before fixing any cracks to remove any dust or dirt in the crack.

METHOD 1: If it’s just some minor hairline cracks or some small chipped areas, then I’ll just use some Bondo. Yup the stuff to fix car dents with. It can be used on concrete also.

Mix up a small batch on a piece of cardboard or a paper plate and use a puddy knife to force it into the crack or fill the small chipped area or small holes. 

Bondo dries in about 20 minutes to you can lightly sand or grind it smooth.

METHOD 2: If you have more extensive cracking or damage due to spalling, I use a product called CRACKWELD DIY CONCRETE CRACK REPAIR.

This is a 2-part polyurea crack repair product that’s really easy to use. You just use a caulking gun and put the Crackweld tube into it.

Then squeeze out the repair material into the crack or spalled area. Some silica sand comes with the kit if you need to sprinkle some sand into the crack (for wider cracks) 


  1. BONDO

I’ll show you how to fix cracks in concrete floors below.

Step 3: Clean the floor

Paint a concrete floorVacuum
Paint a concrete floorMicro-fiber mop

After you’ve fixed all the cracks and damaged areas, it’s now time to clean the concrete floor.

You want to remove any dirt and dust left behind by the grinding process.

Use a really good vacuum that has good suction. Take your time! This step is really important.

After you vacuum the floor, I recommend wiping the floor down with a micro-fiber mop. Wet the mop with some denatured alcohol. The damp mop will collect any residual dust and really clean the floor.

PRO TIP: Only use denatured alcohol for this process, it evaporates very quickly and will not affect the epoxy. Using water could lead to problems with the epoxy blistering later on.



Step 4: Mix and apply primer coating

You’re now ready to apply the primer coating of epoxy paint.

The purpose of most primer coatings is for part of the primer to soak into  and fill the pores of the concrete. 

When epoxy settles down into the pores of the concrete, it pushes out the air in those pores. 

The air that’s being forced out of the pores can cause tiny bubbles in your epoxy.

You don’t want tiny air bubbles in your finished coating of epoxy paint so make sure you use a primer.

The primer will also provide a great surface for your colored coating of epoxy to adhere to.

Some primer’s are also used to help block any moisture vapor from coming up through the concrete floor.

The primer I use in my course is like this. If you have moisture coming up through your floor, the pressure of the moisture will eventually cause your epoxy to blister, flake, or peel off.

Using a moisture blocking primer will greatly mitigate and stop this from happening. 

MIXING THE PRIMER: Most 2- part Primer epoxy’s are either mixed at a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio. 

Just follow the manufacture’s mixing procedure on your kit.


APPLYING THE PRIMER: I use an 18″ paint roller that’s 3/8″ nap to roll on the primer.

The thickness you apply the primer will vary depending on who’s you’re using.

The one I use goes on at 200 square feet a gallon. I measure out sections of the floor at 200 sf apiece and mark it off with painter’s tape. 

You want to be accurate at how thick you apply the primer for best results.

Get it all rolled out moving the roller “north and south” then finish rolling by back rolling it “east to west”.

This ensures a nice even coat of primer on the floor.

PRO TIP: I mix up 1 gallon or 2 gallons at a time then dump it completely out onto the floor before I start rolling it.

As soon as you mix the 2-parts of the epoxy together, it dries fairly fast if you leave it in the bucket. Dumping it out on the floor gives you a lot more time to work with it.

Check on the technical data sheets to see how much “pot life” your epoxy has. This tells you how long you can leave it in the bucket.

Step 5: Apply your colored epoxy

Paint a concrete floorMix Part A with Part B
Paint a concrete floorMix with drill and paddle
Epoxy paint a garage floorRoll out the epoxy paint

After the primer coating is dry, you can paint on the colored coating of epoxy.

Usually this will be the next day, but it could be the same day if your epoxy dries fairly fast.

The colored epoxy is usually a 2-part system with a Part A and a Part B.

It could be a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio of part A to part B depending on who’s epoxy you’re using.

Just follow your epoxy kit’s mixing instructions, this part has to be done right.

The colored coating may go on a little thicker than the primer coat. The one I use does. But not all of them do. 

I apply the one I use at 100 square feet a gallon, so twice as thick as the primer coating. That’s a pretty standard thickness. If the one you’re looking at is thinner, you may want to look for another brand.

PRO TIP: If you had any bubbles in the primer coat that didn’t “pop” and fill in, now is the time to address them before you roll on the colored coat.

Just mix up a little Bondo and fill these areas. Let the Bondo dry, lightly sand it and wipe it with denatured alcohol and your micro-fiber mop to clean the dust.

If you try to just coat over these areas without patching them you could end up with a bubble in your finished coat of epoxy.

APPLICATION METHOD: Dump your epoxy onto the floor in the sections you have measured out. 

Ribbon it out as even as you can in each section.

Using an 18″ roller, roll the epoxy “north to south” spreading it as even as you can and completely covering the floor.

For the final finish pass, immediately after you have rolled it and spread it north to south, walk back in and roll it “east to west” in one even pass.

Start on one side and slowly roll it until you get to the other side. Set the roller over 18″ and go back the other way until you’ve rolled the entire section.



  1. Drill and mixing paddle
  2. Measuring bucket
  3. Clock or Timer
  4. 18″ – 3/8 nap roller cover
  5. 18″ paint roller with handle
  6. Edge brush
  7. 4″ Edge roller (optional)
  8. Squeegee to spread epoxy before rolling (optional)

Epoxy Paint i recommend

I recommend using the RokRez Garage Floor Coating Kit. It comes with the products you need and in an assortment of colors. You can buy this on amazon by clicking here.

PRO TIP: I suggest buying twice as much epoxy as RokRez recommends. You don’t want to run out or try to stretch the product too thin.

Step 6: Apply the protective top coat

How to paint a concrete floorRoll on the protective clear top-coat

Most of the better epoxy coating kits will have a clear protective top coating of urethane.

Epoxy scratches quite easily but urethane (polyurethane) is much more scratch resistant. (and chemical resistant)

It rolls on very thin but offers a lot of protection and prolongs the life and look of your epoxy floor.

Most urethanes mix at a 1:1 ratio and go on at a rate of 300 – 500 square feet a gallon.

If the epoxy kit you’re looking at doesn’t offer a clear protective top coat, I would look elsewhere.

Mix your urethane according to the instructions.

Most of the ones I have used, you can dip and roll onto the floor.

Leave the urethane in the bucket, dump some into a paint tray (I use a 18″ paint tray and roller) then dip the roller in the tray and roll it onto the floor.

NOTE: Always follow your manufacture’s application methods, it may be different than mine.

I roll a section north to south again then finish with the east to west finish pass. This helps eliminate stop and start marks from the roller.


  1. Dill and mixing paddle
  2. Measuring bucket
  3. Clock or Timer
  4. 18″ paint roller cover
  5. 18″ paint roller
  6. 18″ paint tray
  7. Edge brush
  8. 4″ paint roller (optional)


For more information about repairing cracks, see fixing cracks in concrete floors to learn more about how to do this.

See concrete moisture problems to help you understand this. Moisture is your worst enemy when it comes to applying epoxy floor paint.

Check to see if your floor already has a concrete sealer on it by putting some water on the surface. If it beads up, the sealer will have to be removed before any paint goes down. Grinding it off is the best way to remove it.

After the floor is cleaned and ready for painting, choose a nice dry day between 50 – 80 degrees. Make sure the concrete is completely dry, no damp spots from a previous nights rain.

Some epoxy paints start to dry quite fast, especially if you leave it in the bucket, make sure you read the instructions, it’s very important.

You may have to dump the epoxy on the floor in small areas and spread it out with a roller. Plan out in advance where you will begin and end for best results.

Read the manufactures instructions for drying time between coats, be patient and don’t hurry we want complete success here.

Wear protective clothing, you will get some on you!!


  1. ROLL OF PLASTIC & PAINTERS TAPE – For covering anything you don’t want to get epoxy paint on.
  2. RUBBER GLOVES – To use while your applying the epoxy

In conclusion:

I do think installing you own epoxy floor paint is something you can do.

Especially if you follow my tutorial. I would highly recommend buying my course and learning from that. 

I teach you all my tips and application methods in the video course, there so much more information in the course than what’s on this page.

It would be a very good investment and give you the confidence about how to prep the floor and install the epoxy paint the right way.

Get the course here!

Check the manufactures specifications for drying times they may vary greatly, some are much shorter.

Click on GARAGE FLOOR COATINGS for other painting concrete floor ideas.

For more information on concrete floor related topics click on the links below.


Is CONCRETE FLOOR HEATING easy to install?



What do I need to know about PAINTING CONCRETE_FLOORS?

Return from Painting Concrete Floor to Concrete Floors

Return from Painting Concrete Floor to Everything About Concrete Home Page

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Nov 24, How To Pour And Finish A Concrete Patio Slab (My Pro Tips)

I’ll show you how to pour and finish a concrete patio slab just like the pro’s do it. From leveling and screeding the concrete to broom finishing.

Republished by Plato



The steps it takes to build, pour, and finish a concrete patio slab are:

  1. Prepare the sub-grade
  2. Install the forms and reinforcement
  3. Pour and level the concrete
  4. Finish the concrete
  5. Seal the concrete

prepare the sub-grade for concrete

The sub-base under your concrete patio wants to be either gravel, road base, sand, or crushed rock.

You’ll want to remove any sod, grass, clay, or dirt. How much you remove and replace with gravel will depend on where you live and how many freeze/thaw days you get during the winter months.

If you live where you get some to many freezing days, then more gravel is recommended under your concrete patio. A good base would have 12″ to 24″ of compacted gravel under the concrete.

If you live where you don’t get many temperatures below freezing then 4″ to 12″ of sub-base gravel would suffice.

If you have wet conditions, then more gravel and adding drainage would be recommended in that case.

To help keep frost from getting under the patio, you can install 2″ styrofoam under the slab. This will insulate the sub-base and keep it from freezing.

install the forms and reinforcemenet

The thickness of your patio slab will determine what you use for forming material. Most likely your patio slab will be 4″ thick. That’s quite common for a patio slab. 

IF that’s the case, you can use either 2×4’s or 2×6’s to form your concrete patio. The size and shape of your patio will be determined by you and your space or area you have to install the patio.

Setting up forms is fairly simple. Here is more information about forming that will help you.

For reinforcement, you can use wire mesh or rebar. Both are good and will help reinforce the concrete if it does end up cracking.

how to pour and level the concrete

Pouring the concrete for your patio slab and getting it leveled out is something you might want to hire a professional for. 

If your patio slab isn’t very big, then maybe it’s something you can do on your own. 

Watch us pour this 50′ x 10′ concrete patio and see if it’s something you want to try or not.

To learn how to pour and finish concrete like we do in the video above, check out my training academy The Concrete Underground.

In The Concrete Underground I have many of my best training videos to teach you how to pour and finish concrete just like we do it.

how to broom finish and seal the concrete

Knowing how and when to start the finishing process is one of the hardest things to learn about concrete finishing.

In the video below, I will show you how we start the finishing process and apply a broom finish to the concrete.

The finishing is always determined by how fast of slow the concrete sets up. I’ll show you the best time to start finishing in the video below for best results.

I used a penetrating sealer to seal the concrete with in the video. This type of sealer will not leave a slippery film on the surface but will seal and protect your concrete.

It’s best applied with some type of sprayer. We’re using a power sprayer in the video but you can use a simple garden pump up style sprayer if you like.

tools you’ll need to build a concrete patio slab

I’ve made a list of all the tools you’ll need to build your concrete patio slab.

Most of these you can get at your local hardware store or even easier, you can order them right from Amazon.

Concrete tools list for building a patio slab.


I built this page to help you decide if you want to pour your own concrete patio or not. 

If you kind of handy and like building and doing things on your own, then maybe it’s something you can tackle by yourself after watching my videos.

If the size of your patio slab isn’t too large, maybe you can do it yourself with the information I’ve given you on this page.

If you have any doubts or questions, then look to hire a pro like me. We do this kind of work every day.

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Go to Concrete Patios

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Nov 21, Fast Setting Concrete Mix (Recipe-Ingredients-Mix Design)

I use this fast setting concrete mix for pouring all types of concrete. When you need your concrete to set up fast, this mix design will get the job done.

Republished by Plato



A fast setting concrete mix has the following ingredients included to speed up the set time:

  1. Extra Portland Cement
  2. Water-reducing admixture
  3. Warm water (for mixing)
  4. An accelerator admixture (calcium chloride)

If you need a concrete mix that will set up fast, plan to use at least a 4000 psi mix. This type of mix has more cement than most of the regular concrete mix designs.

More cement in the mix means more heat of hydration as the concrete sets up, speeding up the curing process.

Using warm water will also help speed up the set times, especially if you’re pouring concrete in cold temperatures.

A water reducing admixture will help lower the water – cement ratio in the mix and still give you a workable mix to place your concrete. This helps with set times and improves the strength versus just using water.

Adding an accelerating admixture to the concrete will decrease set times by 10 – 30% in a lot of cases. 

cold weather fast setting mix for floors and patios

In the video above I’m using a 4000 psi concrete mix to pour this concrete floor. The concrete had 115 degree F water, 20oz of water reducer per yard of concrete, and we used two 50lb bags of calcium chloride in each truck load.

The outside temps were 32 degrees when we started pouring the floor. You can see the steam coming off the concrete as we get it spread out.

We started pouring at approximately 7 AM and we finished power troweling at 2 PM. The outside temperature never got above 41 degrees.

The most important ingredients for fast setting concrete are warm/hot water in the mix and using an accelerator like calcium chloride.

These two ingredients will speed up the set times of any concrete mix, whether it’s ready-mix or a bag mix like Quikrete or Sakrete.

does hot water make concrete set faster?

Using hot water to mix concrete will help speed up the set time by speeding up heat of hydration.

Heat of hydration is a chemical reaction that takes place when cement and water get mixed together. 

If the water is COLD, there is less heat that develops and the concrete sets up slower.

If the mix water is HOT, there is more heat that develops, which makes the concrete set up much faster.

Outside, ambient air temperatures as well as mix water temperatures HOT or COLD play a very important role in how FAST of SLOW concrete sets up. Hot = Fast and Cold = Slow (in most cases)

how do you make concrete set faster? (2 easiest methods)

The best and easiest way to make concrete set up faster is to use hot water to mix it with. If you use warm or really hot water, you’ll see an increase in the set time.

The 2nd best way is to use an accelerator like flake calcium chloride. You can use this instead of hot water if hot water isn’t available.

Most local hardware stores carry calcium chloride flakes/pellets in either 25lb or 50lb bags.

If you’re using an 80lb bag mix, only start using about 2 Cups of calcium chloride flakes to see just how fast it starts setting up and adjust up or down from there.

What is the fastest drying cement and concrete mix?

The fastest drying cement mix and concrete mix is the brand called RAPID SET from CTS CEMENT.

They have a rapid setting cement mix called CEMENT ALL. This cement mix sets up in only a few minutes and cures hard enough to walk on in 20 – 30 minutes. It comes in a blue bag or blue box at HD.

CTS also has a rapid setting concrete mix called, you guessed it, RAPID SET CONCRETE MIX. This also sets up in only minutes and has 3/8″ stone aggregate in it. It comes in a green bag and you can get it at HD.

I personally use both the Rapid Set Concrete Mix and Cement All for doing a lot of repairs and small concrete projects. Just beware, they both set up very fast. 

They actually have a “set slowing admixture pack” to slow the set and give you more working time if you think you’ll need it.

what is quikrete’s fastest setting concrete mix?

Quikrete has a RED bag called “Fast Setting Concrete MIx”. They claim is hardens in 20 – 40 minutes and can be walked on in 2 hours.

You can use this 50lb quick drying bag mix for steps, sidewalks, slabs, and for setting fence posts or a mailbox post.

This concrete mix can be used to set posts without mixing. Just dump the dry ingredients around the post and sprinkle with water for it to harden.

This mix will reach 4000 psi in 28 days.

Quikrete also has a “High Early Strength” concrete mix called Quikrete 5000. It’s not a rapid setting mix but does set up faster than their regular bag mixes. (I’ve used it for countertops)

This can be used for most anything; footings, slabs, walkways and floors. Just add some accelerator if you need it to cure faster. It’ll reach 5000 psi in 28 days. 

You can purchase either of these concrete mixes at Home Depot.

What is sakrete’s fastest setting concrete mix?

You guessed it, Sakrete has a 50lb bag called “Fast Setting Concrete MIx”. (I see a trend here)

It’ll harden in 30 minutes and you can walk on it in 6 hours & drive on it in 48 hours.

This can be used for setting posts, slabs, walkways, patios, curbs, and ramps.

It’ll reach 4000 psi in 28 days. You can get this at Lowe’s and most local hardware stores.

fast setting concrete additives – what to use

A fast setting additive for concrete mixes will greatly increase the set time and curing times of your concrete. 

Quikrete has a 1.5 lb Concrete mix accelerator that comes in a green and black box. You can add 1 or 2 of these to a 60 or 80 lb bag mix to speed up the set time. Purchase this right at Home Depot.

Sakrete has a 1 gallon bottle of “Cement Mix Accelerator” you can add to their concrete mix to speed up set time. 

How much you add and how fast they increase set times will also depend on how cold it is outside and how cold or warm the water is you use to mix with.

Another additive that’ll increase set times is flake calcium chloride. Just mix about a cup or two in the mixing water before adding your bag mix concrete. Then mix the concrete and use at as you normally would. Just move a little faster:)

We use a 50 lb bag of calcium per 5 yards of concrete when we pour concrete floors. This increases set times a lot in colder weather. Add hot water to the mix and you have a rapid setting concrete mix.

how much water do you need per bag?

Depending on which fast setting bag mix you choose, you’ll have to add the correct amount of water to achieve the best results.

Each brand is very similar when it comes to adding mix water, here is the breakdown:

  • Sakrete Fast setting concrete mix is 2.5 – 3 quarts of water per bag
  • Quikrete Fast setting concrete mix is 2.5 quarts of water per bag
  • Rapid Set Concrete Mix (green bag) is 3.5 to 4 quarts of water per bag

All these bag mixes have the mixing instructions right on the back of the bag. 

is fast setting concrete weaker than regular concrete?

The answer to that question is no, all these bag mixes are designed to reach 4000 psi at 28 days.

If you add more mixing water than the bags suggest then you could weaken the concrete. But just because it sets up faster doesn’t mean it’ll be a weaker mix.

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Kryton Welcomes New Head of Sales in India

Recently, Kryton had the pleasure of welcoming Ashish Singh as the new head of sales at Kryton Buildmat Co. Pvt. Ltd. in India. Bringing over 25 years of experience in the construction chemicals industry with him, Mr. Singh comes with a good understanding of waterproofing products and technologies. He also has the knowledge necessary to […]

Republished by Plato



Recently, Kryton had the pleasure of welcoming Ashish Singh as the new head of sales at Kryton Buildmat Co. Pvt. Ltd. in India.

Bringing over 25 years of experience in the construction chemicals industry with him, Mr. Singh comes with a good understanding of waterproofing products and technologies. He also has the knowledge necessary to work directly with large contractors as well as with distributors and applicators. With those qualities at his disposal, he is a welcome addition to the Kryton family.

Mr. Singh has worked for a variety of different companies throughout India. As a result, he has learned to manage business in the northern, eastern, western, southern, and central parts of India. He also has experience managing similar work for Sri Lanka, Maldives, Bangladesh, and Bhutan.

Throughout all that time, Mr. Singh has proven himself to be an energetic leader with a consistent record of delivering results in growth, revenue, operational performance, and profitability. Kryton is excited to see him join the team, and we look forward to working together to meet the needs of our customers.


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